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7 watches that are beyond three hands and a dial – from Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin to Longines and Parmigiani Fleurier – plus a 1970s’ throwback … it’s digital

From left to right: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Chinese Calendar; Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel; Saint Laurent Rive Droite x Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0

As watch buyers become more sophisticated, so has visibility and demand for pieces that give you the time in new and unexpected ways. After all, why settle for three hands rotating around a circular dial? Here are some of our favourite pieces with complications like the retrograde where hands snap back to reality, or where time literally jumps back and forth with wandering or jumping hours. Some have alternative calendars, and there is – yes – a high horology, high fashion digital watch.

1. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

A retrograde is an indication where the hand makes only a part, instead of a full, revolution of a dial before it jumps back to the starting point. A pioneer in the field, Vacheron Constantin has made watches with such indications for a century and its latest Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface sees the hand following an arch spanning 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock.

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2. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

There’s also an arch in the Code 11.59by Audemars Piguet Starwheel. This is a reintroduction of the 1990s Starwheel Wandering Hours complication inspired by 17th-century clocks. The hours appear on three circulating and rotating discs, with the current hour shown at the top of the watch at the correct angle, and a discreet arrow showing minutes along the top of the dial.

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3. Hautlence Sphere Series 1

Hautlence Sphere Series 1

Ever since its inception in 2004, jumping hours, TV-shaped cases and retrograde minute arches have been hallmarks of Hautlence. With the Sphere Series 1, another dimension is added – literally – thanks to the jumping hours being located on a ball jutting out from the display.

4. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Xiali Calendar

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Xiali Calendar

But how about looking at the whole year differently? Parmigiani Fleurier released a Chinese lunar-solar calendar with an auspicious rouge dial this year. The Tonda PF Xiali Calendar comes complete with a red dial and traditional calendar watch face with Chinese characters and moonphase.

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5. H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Chinese Calendar

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Chinese Calendar

It’s not enough for H. Moser & Cie to attempt a Chinese calendar. Rather, they’ve Endeavoured to do away with subdials in favour of a double retrograde complication, with a character denoting the relevant zodiac animal at 12 o’clock and Gregorian date at 6.

6. Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm

For those keeping track of more than one timezone, there are few more legible options than the iconic Longines Spirit Zulu Time, now in a very wearable 39mm compared to the previous 42mm. Dating back to 1925, Longines’ dual-time piece refers to the military call sign for Z, who use the term “Zulu time” to designate universal time.

7. Saint Laurent Rive Droite x Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0

Saint Laurent Rive Droite x Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0

Eschewing hands altogether, Saint Laurent has collaborated with Girard-Perregaux to reintroduce the 1970s Casquette with this year’s Rive Droite Casquette 2.0. The new model upholds the design language of the original, but it is now encased in ceramic and grade 5 titanium as digital time is shown with blood-red LED. To preserve battery life, this is a watch with “time on demand”: you have to press a button to reveal the time.

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  • Look, no hands! Saint Laurent’s collab with Girard-Perregaux brings back the spirit of the 70s with the Rive Droite Casquette 2.0 digital watch – press a button to get the time in a red LED display
  • Jumping hours, TV-shaped cases and retrograde minute arches have been hallmarks of Hautlence – its Sphere Series 1 adds a ball jutting out from the display