Making the case: Rolex’s Everose and Hublot’s Magic Gold and King Gold show off the latest in watchmaking alloy excellence

Jul 6 , 2025

Rolex uses a proprietary Everose gold alloy. Photo: Handout

A. Lange & Söhne’s proprietary 18k gold alloy Honeygold is featured in the new Odysseus Chronograph, while Japanese jeweller Tasaki’s Sakuragold captures the hue of cherry blossoms

There’s no shortage of innovation in horology, but lately, it’s not just happening inside the case – it is the case.

At Watches and Wonders 2025, proprietary gold alloys stole the spotlight in some of the year’s most significant launches. These aren’t your traditional precious metals – they’re patented blends developed by brands to enhance hardness, prevent fading, improve colour stability and create materials as distinctive as any dial or movement.

A. Lange & Söhne rendered its newest Odysseus in Honeygold. Photo: Handout

A prime example is A. Lange & Söhne, the German watchmaker revered for its exceptional engineering and low-volume approach. Its newest Odysseus Chronograph is rendered in Honeygold – a proprietary 18k gold alloy developed in 2010 with a hue between yellow and rose, reminiscent of honey. Used in only 14 references to date and reserved for limited editions and commemorative pieces, Honeygold isn’t just notable for its tone – it’s also significantly harder than conventional 18k gold, thanks to a custom mineral blend and specialised heat treatment.

A. Lange & Söhne’s Honeygold alloy has a hue somewhere between yellow and rose. Photo: Handout

This new Odysseus marks the first time Honeygold has been used in one of the brand’s sportier models. Limited to 100 pieces, the 42.5mm watch features a newly developed integrated Honeygold bracelet and a brown, granular-textured dial. It’s powered by the L156.1 Datomatic calibre, which delivers a 50-hour power reserve and 120 metres of water resistance – making it one of the most technically robust applications of Honeygold to date.

Pianist Yuja Wang wears a Rolex Land-Dweller 36 in Everose gold with a diamond-set bezel. Photo: Handout

Watchmaking goliath Rolex, meanwhile, puts its proprietary Everose gold centre stage in the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 36. First introduced in 2005, Everose addresses one of pink gold’s primary weaknesses – tone degradation – by including a trace amount of platinum to preserve its colour over time. In the new Land-Dweller 36, the alloy is used throughout the case and bracelet and a honeycomb-pattern, laser-etched dial.

One model adds a diamond-set bezel and baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers. Inside, the range uses the calibre 7135, which includes the brand’s new Dynapulse escapement, a Syloxi silicon hairspring and a ceramic balance staff – delivering a 66-hour power reserve. A specially engineered Flat Jubilee bracelet in Everose gold, featuring ceramic inserts and a concealed clasp, ensures a seamless finish.

Montblanc 1858 Geo Annual Calendar in Lime Gold. Photo: Handout

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