Anthony Vaccarello had big shoes to fill after the departure of his predecessor Hedi Slimane. The show last night certainly proved Vaccarello is gearing up for the beginning of a new era at the heritage house.
Welcoming guests at the new show's venue was a giant neon-lit classic YSL signage hanging from a blue-and-red crane. The address, Rue de Bellechasse, where the show took place, was previously home to the Ministry of the French Armed Forces. It will be fully renovated to become the new Saint Laurent headquarters in 2018.
The raw, still under-construction site provided a perfect backdrop for Vaccarello’s first collection for Saint Laurent, which was inspired by the house’s 1972 “Scandal” collection, influenced by Paloma Picasso.
1980s references, evident in previous collections, were still aplenty now that the house is under Vaccarello’s creative direction, oozing a balance between sexiness and elegance.
The brand stated that the new direction stems from Yves Saint Laurent's passion for “twisting bourgeois conventions and flirting with bad taste”.
The starting point of the collection was a dress with exaggerated sleeves taken from the archives and reinvented for a contemporary silhouette. The sleeves were seen in various renderings such as sequins, lace and leopard prints.
Sheer lace bodices, paired with tuxedo pants or mini-leather skirts, were definitely sexy. One leather dress in particular was not made for the faint-hearted, as its one-shoulder cut revealed the breast, but covered the nipple with a crystal patch.
Body-hugging bustier tops, with sweetheart necklines, were matched with skinny tight pants or low-hung jeans, while slim-cut tuxedo pant suits made recurrent appearances on the runway – classic luxury basics that flaunted the house’s craftsmanship and will likely to appeal to the customer base that Slimane built over the past few seasons.
Accessories featured the classic YSL motif, such as stilettos with decorative YSL logos.
Spotted on the front row were Saint Laurent regulars including Jane Birkin and Lou Doillon.