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Paris show traces kimono from prim tradition to glam fashion

STORYAgence France-Presse
A painting by late artist James Tissot "La japonaise au bain" (The Japanese Bath) at an exhibition titled "Kimono - Au bonheur des dames" at the Guimet museum in Paris. Photo: AFP
A painting by late artist James Tissot "La japonaise au bain" (The Japanese Bath) at an exhibition titled "Kimono - Au bonheur des dames" at the Guimet museum in Paris. Photo: AFP

Kimono by top fashion designers Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Junko Koshino, Kenzo Takada and Franck Sorbier take centre stage at Paris’s Guimet museum

While the once ubiquitous garment is now reserved for special occasions and official events in its homeland, it has inspired the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier and Dior’s John Galliano in the West’s fashion capitals.

Kimonos by Junko Koshino at an exhibition titled
Kimonos by Junko Koshino at an exhibition titled

Around 150 styles from the collection of Matsuzakaya – the centuries-old Japanese fashion house that became a department store – are on display abroad for the first time in the Guimet’s show, titled “Kimono, The Ladies’ Delight”.

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The unique pieces, some of them dazzling works of art, reflect a range of sophistication and difficulty in fabrication.
A kimono created by John Galliano at an exhibition titled
A kimono created by John Galliano at an exhibition titled

Variations of the kimono first caught on in the West as part of a general fad for all things Japanese in the late 19th century when bourgeois ladies began wearing a casual version – without the restraining obi belt – around the house.

Then Parisian couturiers Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet began experimenting with the kimono in the 1920s.

A Kimono by Jean Paul Gaultier at an exhibition titled
A Kimono by Jean Paul Gaultier at an exhibition titled

Fast forward to Japanese-French designer Kenzo Takada, two of whose creations dating from 2006 are in featured in the exhibit.

“It’s thanks to the kimono that I found my identity,” said Takada, the 77-year-old founder of the Kenzo luxury fashion house.

“When I opened my boutique (in Paris) in 1970, I told myself, I’m Japanese, I probably know kimonos and Japanese traditions better than French designers and I should take advantage of that,” Takada recalled.

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