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Flavoured, low-alcohol Scotch? Distilleries test whisky’s limits

STORYAgence France-Presse
Assistant professor of distilling Matthew Pauley says Johnnie Walker can’t suddenly make strawberry whisky and send it off to China. Photo: AFP
Assistant professor of distilling Matthew Pauley says Johnnie Walker can’t suddenly make strawberry whisky and send it off to China. Photo: AFP
Wine and Spirits

Some have been experimenting with flavoured or lower alcohol spirits, but British law states Scotch must be at least 40 per cent alcohol 

Demand for more variety in Scotch whisky from fast-growing emerging markets and the request for lower alcohol varieties among health-conscious drinkers are challenging a closely guarded centuries-old tradition.

Drinks giant Diageo, producers of market leader Johnnie Walker, sent shock waves through the industry earlier this year when a “highly confidential” document, leaked to The Wall Street Journal, revealed potential innovations such as flavoured infusions, low-alcohol variants and whisky finished in tequila casks.

A detail of a pot still is pictured at the Auchentoshan Distillery near Glasgow in Scotland. Photo: AFP
A detail of a pot still is pictured at the Auchentoshan Distillery near Glasgow in Scotland. Photo: AFP 
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But it is operating within very tight restrictions as British law states Scotch must be at least 40 per cent alcohol – which means distillers cannot reach out to health-conscious millennials or tap into the lucrative Middle Eastern market with lower or zero alcohol Scotch.

“There is a lot of interest in lower alcohol spirit drinks across the spirit sector to do with things like the Dry January craze and minimum pricing of alcohol,” says Matthew Pauley, an assistant professor at Heriot-Watt University’s International Centre for Brewing and Distilling. 

“A few people have been experimenting throughout the sector with lower alcohol spirits, and no alcohol spirit variants. Not all of them have been well received.”

Pauley’s shelves are packed with herbs, spices and flavourings used in experiments with gin – but they are kept well away from the whisky stills.

Employee Derek Laurie inspects the ‘Mash Tun’, which is used in the first stage of whisky production, at the Auchentoshan Distillery near Glasgow, Scotland in February, 2018. Photo: AFP
Employee Derek Laurie inspects the ‘Mash Tun’, which is used in the first stage of whisky production, at the Auchentoshan Distillery near Glasgow, Scotland in February, 2018. Photo: AFP 

The law restricts Scotch ingredients to barley, water and yeast aged in oak casks, meaning flavoured infusions and tequila-cask finishes are also likely to attract the attention of the litigious Scotch Whisky Association (SWA).

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