Can Paul Andrew ‘own leather’ for Salvatore Ferragamo?
I have a bad habit of poking everything. Tactile interest is of immense importance to me when it comes to fashion collections, and the new Salvatore Ferragamo collection gave me plenty to poke and write about.
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We were in Tokyo last month for the launch of the Italian luxury goods brand’s autumn/winter 2019 collection, which took place at the Ba-Tsu Art Gallery in Shibuya, and a dapper Paul Andrew welcomed editors to explore the collection and partake of champagne (journalists start drinking early).
The gallery, set up with jewel-hued partitions, showcased the creative director’s latest designs, which are centred around versatility and comfort.
For menswear, we saw deerskin, corduroy and technical wool gaberdine, with a loose but refined cut that simultaneously promotes comfort outdoors and utilitarian sophistication.
The new suit comes with a wider lapel and soft shoulders that offer more ease of movement, and is available in both Italian and British fabric.
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The womenswear held more interest for me – and not just for obvious reasons.
Materials ranged from buttery soft nappa and suede to snake and lizard.
Creative director Paul Andrew included key reminders of Salvatore Ferragamo’s heritage through the new signature Gancini monogram jacquard, as well as archival scarf prints updated in modern patchwork on silk twill
Andrew has spoken of his aim to “own leather” in previous interviews, and he reiterated that sentiment while taking us through the presentation.
Leather offerings ranged from heavy draped robes to sharply tailored jackets – my favourite of which can be cinched at the waist with a drawstring.
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We saw the black and grey number – almost reminiscent of a kimono in its silhouette – that Kaia Gerber wore for the autumn/winter 2019 show in Milan Fashion Week earlier this year.
Other notable pieces included a heavy but unbelievably soft-fringed cashmere – and not shearling as we originally assumed – blanket coat, as well as sportswear in Japanese technical wool.
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Andrew included key reminders of the brand’s heritage through the new signature Gancini monogram jacquard, as well as archival scarf prints updated in modern patchwork on silk twill.
Having made his name as a footwear designer, Andrew didn’t disappoint with this season’s shoe collection, which ranged from structural heels to trekking boots.
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We were also privy to a first look at the brand’s new boxyz bag, which features a lock and key unique to each bag for increased security, and is available in three sizes, 10 colours and four materials – ostrich, lizard, calf and tweed.
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Paul Andrew, Italian luxury goods brand’s creative director, presents sophisticated, utilitarian menswear and striking leather womenswear at launch in Tokyo