New York Fashion Week: Pyer Moss’ stirring ‘Sister’ offers masterful celebration of black culture
- Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond’s joyful Brooklyn production borrowed from black music, the black church and paid tribute to what African Americans have achieved in the 400 years since the first enslaved Africans arrived in the United States
There was a huge choir that veered from stirring, soaring gospel, then spit verses from Cardi B and sang lines from Queen Latifah’s U.N.I.T.Y.; a spoken word artist who reminded the audience that rock ‘n’ roll was born because of a black, queer woman; and a stunning collection of clothes that ran the gamut from casual chic to red carpet gowns, all modelled by black or brown faces.
“Sister”, Pyer Moss’ latest production for New York Fashion Week, was a brilliant, irreverent and joyous celebration of black culture, specifically black women – a show where even the colourful, eye-catching garments proved to be just part of the story its designer, Kerby Jean-Raymond, masterfully weaved together on Sunday night.
“The whole thing is really to recognise our worth, and us as black people, what we’ve contributed to what pop society is in America,” Jean-Raymond said. “What I aim to do (with this series) is to make disenfranchised people, black people, and minorities and women, know and understand how important they are to this thing called America right now.”
The first sign that the Pyer Moss was going to be something out of the ordinary was its location: Miles from Manhattan, the upstart fashion house held court on Flatbush Avenue, at the Kings Theatre, a venue sitting in one of the more culturally rich black neighbourhoods in Brooklyn, New York.
Once inside the ornate and refurbished venue, a runway was fashioned in front of the stage, and in between stood a piano – another hint that clothes would be merely part of the story Jean-Raymond planned to tell.
What followed was a production that borrowed from black music, the black church and other aspects of the culture to pay loving tribute to what African Americans have achieved. Before the show began, spoken word artist Casey Gerald noted the grim anniversary being marked worldwide – 400 years since the first enslaved Africans arrived in the United States.
But instead of sorrow, Gerald emphasised freedom and noted “we have come here to say we ain’t gonna grieve no more. We have come tonight to say you can’t hurt us no more.”