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STYLE Edit: Alessandro Michele revives Gucci’s iconic 1955 Horsebit bag – and celebrities are loving it

In the bag: Sienna Miller was spotted with Gucci’s 1955 Horsebit handbag – in the beige and ebony supreme canvas material with brown leather trim – in Rome this July.
In the bag: Sienna Miller was spotted with Gucci’s 1955 Horsebit handbag – in the beige and ebony supreme canvas material with brown leather trim – in Rome this July.
Style Edit

Neoclassical philosophy, Ancient Greek togas and Mickey Mouse among designer’s influences for history-inspired collection – which also revives the classic 1950s handbag, spotted on holidaying British actress in Rome

While many designers may cite the heritage of their house as the predominant inspiration for fresh seasonal collections, Gucci’s ever-eccentric creative director Alessandro Michele takes it one step further – or perhaps several centuries back – taking cues from both 18th century Neoclassical philosophy, and even Ancient Greece, for his Cruise 2020 collection.

The Gucci 1955 Horsebit bag is making a comeback.
The Gucci 1955 Horsebit bag is making a comeback.
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For Gucci’s Cruise 2020 show at Rome’s Capitoline Museums, Michele treated us to yet another exploration of fashion’s relationship with history. Drawing inspiration from classical antiquity and the Neoclassical philosopher Johann Joachim Winckelmann, Michele gave us togas over suits, Roman army uniforms … and Mickey Mouse. 

The Gucci 1955 Horsebit bag joined this eclectic mix on the runway with its own exciting history. Michele uncovered the original design in the house’s archives and – like any Neoclassicist would – imitated the vintage artefact with absolute reverence.

And he has already found one notable fan, with actress Sienna Miller spotted carrying the 1955 Horsebit handbag – in the beige and ebony GG Supreme canvas material with brown leather trim – in Rome in late July.

The Gucci 1955 Horsebit differs from typical bucket bag designs, with a constructed circular base and soft leather nearer to the drawstring.
The Gucci 1955 Horsebit differs from typical bucket bag designs, with a constructed circular base and soft leather nearer to the drawstring.

Michele retained the original details of the 1950s handbag, most significantly the equestrian-inspired “code” that reminds us of Gucci’s long-standing association with the sport. The double ring and bar appear on both the flap closure and in half-form on the side panels.

The same shoulder-style silhouette is also retained in the modern interpretation. It aligns with Michele’s philosophy du jour, whereby one maintains strict adherence to the technique, craft and simplicity of form.

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