STYLE Edit: How Bottega Veneta has moved on from the past with Daniel Lee's debut show

The Fall 2019 collection marked Daniel Lee’s first show for Bottega Veneta since his appointment as creative director in June 2018. But for those who were expecting pieces resembling Phoebe Philo-era Celine, where Lee headed the brand’s ready-to-wear collection, the new director had a different idea.

Instead, we saw Lee take the reins of Bottega Veneta with both hands; the 32-year-old British designer fully immersed himself into the brand’s design heritage and house codes. For this Fall collection, Lee breathes life into Bottega Veneta’s traditional techniques and motifs, particularly in his modern reinterpretation of the house’s intrecciato weave and leatherworking capabilities.

Hand-stitched matelassé quilting looks like a pillowy dream on leather mules, square-toed bloc pumps and padded sandals in chocolate brown, Nero black, optic white and eye-catching Topazio blue.

The padded quilting can also be seen in the statement satin knee-length skirts with chain belts. A satin-on-satin pairing on the runway maintains textural richness with a lacquered satin tuxedo shirt showcasing heat-moulded pleats. In addition to chocolate brown and Nero black, the skirt comes in fresh mint green.

For something less bubbly, the mid-calf leather biker boots with a stacked lug sole and chevron motif padding offer serious stomp appeal.

Indeed, the leather motocross gear would have been an obvious direction for interpreting the modern leather-clad Bottega Veneta woman – and Lee does go here, with a beautiful quilted Nappa leather biker jacket. But he also goes here, there and everywhere in between when it comes to the brand’s favourite medium.

Leather “chain mail” looks like modern armour on a collarless coat and A-line skirt. Shiny paper calf leather dresses appear with twisted bust detailing and exposed necklines on clavicle cut-out silhouettes. A voluminous satin blouson jacket has been worked to give a leather finished effect.