STYLE Edit: How Anthony Vaccarello brought Saint Laurent back to the ’80s – no monkey included
YSL creative director Anthony Vaccarello makes references to three muses: fashion icon Betty Catroux, French actress Catherine Deneuve and former actress Bianca Jagger
Sharp, couture-refined tailoring was at the fore of the Saint Laurent Winter 2019 collection, with a focus on the shoulders.
“Everything starts from the shoulder construction, the graphic sculptural tailoring gives sharp sophistication to the impulse of desire,” said creative director Anthony Vaccarello.
In one of the opening looks, the exaggerated shoulder construction and oversized-collar on a classic white satin blazer was a perfect example of androgynous Saint Laurent sex appeal. The blazer paired with matching high-rise trousers and a 6-pleated smoking tuxedo cummerbund.
The tailoring also brought us back to the ’80s. During the show, Vaccarello made beauty references to Yves Saint Laurent’s ’80s muses: fashion icon Betty Catroux, French actress Catherine Deneuve and former actress Bianca Jagger, who was known for her jet set lifestyle and frequent parties at Studio 54 in Midtown Manhattan.
The first looks of the coed show highlighted the sculptural lines and graphic elegance of the collection in a broadly black and white palette. Black dresses with graphic cut-outs and prints made their way down the mirrored kaleidoscopic runway.
A long-sleeved dress with all-over square crystal embroidery featured rib cage cut-outs and an asymmetrical wrapped skirt, giving a flattering illusion of height and curvature.