STYLE Edit: Fendi’s autumn/winter men’s collection collides 70s throwbacks with futurism and sustainable fashion

There was a lot happening at the Fendi men’s autumn/winter 2020 show. From the throwback 70s influences and futuristic vibes, to the dramatic UV light spectacle at the end of the show, one might have felt a little overwhelmed.

But we are no strangers to full-throttle maximalism in 2020; and, perhaps gratefully, this wasn’t it. Instead, this particular brand of retro-futurism showcased by creative director Silvia Fendi gave us reimagined, refined wardrobe staples. Yes, Fendi went back to basics by going “back” to the future.

With sustainable fashion in mind, Fendi offers us multipurpose menswear that lasts. A classic tailored jacket can be detached into a fancy bolero, or cropped jacket. A skirt-trouser hybrid and reversible outerwear give consumers style options without having to overload their wardrobes. Additionally, the fabrics are resilient: the luxuriously fuzzy melton wool is armour against the elements; as is the hardy corduroy suede and waterproof gaberdine on trousers and outerwear. You could wear these pieces a thousand times in autumn – and in many ways.

For the modern man about town, the Fall collection also zeroes in on multi-pocket inserts and oversized bags. A yellow oversized shopper bag intentionally looks like exaggerated Fendi packaging. On warm coats with inside-out constructions, compartments for your earphones and celebratory cigars are visible.

The cigar compartment complements the vintage elements in this collection. There are definite 70s influences here. The new Fendi Code print, which interprets the FF logo as a chain link animalia pattern, veers into vintage territory when seen on multicolour knitwear. Corduroy suede comes in that quintessential 70s burgundy but is paired with a futuristic rubber lug sole boot with FF logo indentations.

Of course, we must talk about the UV light production that happened at the end of the runway show. For this collection, Silvia Fendi collaborated with Anrealage’s creative director, Kunihiko Morinaga, the first ready-to-wear designer to use UV sunlight for colour-changing fabrics, to give us photochromic outerwear for the first time on a European runway.

Is photochromic fabric the future of fashion? Who knows? But the Fendi menswear collection has more than enough for pundits and purchasers to sink their teeth into.