Islamic arches and Russian domes: from Boucheron to Van Cleef & Arpels, how luxury jewellery brands are inspired by iconic architecture
Chaumet’s eight-piece Les Trésors d'Ailleurs collection sees each ring inspired by a different architectural style – from Chinese pagodas to Paris’ Grand Palais – while bold London jeweller Theo Fennell channels imposing castles, Egyptian pyramids and Rome Colosseum
Today’s jewellery designers are producing extraordinary statement pieces drawn from with architecture-inspired silhouettes.
Chaumet celebrated the reopening of its Place Vendôme home in Paris with a collection of eight unusual rings, Les Trésors d'Ailleurs, monumental in both inspiration and proportion.
Each ring is inspired by a different piece or style of iconic architecture. The art nouveau era Grand Palais in Paris is scaled down to finger-size in gold fretwork set with diamonds and emeralds. There are three Qianlong rings (each in a differently coloured lacquer) inspired by the pagoda roof architecture of an imperial palace.
The Sakura ring in diamonds and black jade depicts a Japanese building, while Shéhérazade, in lacquer with sculpted lapis lazuli, portrays the star-shaped architecture and cupola typical of an Islamic building. These are the first designs to be released with more to come.
The “house rings”, as creative director Claire Dévé-Rakoff calls them, are inspired by the Jewish tradition of betrothal rings – extravagantly crafted miniature palaces, castles and temples that stand proudly in place of a gemstone. The earliest known rings date back to the 14th century; as time advanced, so did the craftsmanship involving intricate gold filigree and enamelling.
Chaumet is not alone in embracing this highly unusual design. London jeweller Theo Fennell has been making “opening rings” for 10 years. Poison or pillbox rings became popular in Europe in the 16th century; today, they have far less sinister purposes. Fennell’s designs, for example, make bold architectural statements, including a castle and an Egyptian pyramid. Two of his most recent miniature masterpieces are the Rome Colosseum ring, which opens to reveal a gladiator, and a charming white gold and diamond crystal igloo ring, which contains a penguin.
These intricate designs are great conversation pieces, as are Annoushka Ducas’ Russian onion-domed rings celebrating her brand’s 10th anniversary. She commissioned Hong Kong jeweller Austy Lee to design four architectural rings based on Russia, where she spent much of her childhood. Each of Lee’s fantastical creations represents a city: St Petersburg, Moscow, Kazan and Sochi, and are inspired by Ducas’ onion-domed Touch Wood collection.