STYLE Edit: Van Cleef & Arpels’ new Perlée collection ring uses a delicate gold and diamond beadwork technique developed almost a century ago
The Perlée designs have been a part of Van Cleef & Arpels’ glamorous jewels for over a decade now. Characterised by tiny, intricately hand-polished beads, the collection has its roots in the traditional gold beading technique used by the maison to decorate everything from earrings to secret watches since the 1920s.
Over the years, the playful Perlée line has expanded with a range of offerings in precious stones and colourful combinations that can be worn individually or stacked together for an absolutely elegant look. The newest addition to this collection is a bold ring made with gadrooned gold and diamonds. A modern reinterpretation of the iconic Tartelette ring created in 1948, this piece celebrates the precious interplay of light and curves with its dome design and intricate stone-setting.
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Offered in yellow, white and rose gold, the Perlée diamonds pavé rings reflect Van Cleef & Arpels’ inimitable craftsmanship. For each ring, the craftsmen rework the golden gadroons by hand, one by one, to give them a vaulted shape of carefully studied proportions. They are then polished to enhance their gleam. The rings’ inner surface is also meticulously polished to enhance its look and comfort for the wearer. The diamonds adorning the dome are selected according to the strictest quality criteria – D to F for colour and IF to VVS for clarity. Their sparkle is further heightened by a gold openwork structure that allows light to pass through. Each pave ring features 37 stones of varying diameters, weighing a total of 2.28 carats and arranged to accentuate their volume.
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In the late 1940s, Van Cleef & Arpels often drew inspiration from the world of haute couture and this was seen in the Tartelette ring where the beauty of the oval design was enhanced through relief textures. The silhouette recalled the form of signet rings, while the gadrooned motifs echoed centuries-old metalworking techniques traditionally used for the arts of the table.
The gadrooned oval ring turned out to be a huge success for the brand and the model was patented in 1950. Over the next 10 years, the ring was reinterpreted in a variety of shapes – round, rectangular, swirling – and was ultimately introduced in the La Boutique collections admired for their gorgeous diamonds or hard stones displayed in sync with the styles of the time. Between the 1950s and the 1970s, Van Cleef & Arpels used the gold beading technique extensively to create the gentle curves of gadroons embellishing rings, earrings, watches and even accessories like lighters, powder cases and perfume bottles.
The playful beads found their way to the brand’s signature Alhambra collection in 1968, recognised for its lucky four-leaf clover. The beading technique greatly enhanced the delicate design elements in the Alhambra line. Eventually, in 2008, the maison debuted the Perlée, an entire collection that paid tribute to these precious golden beads. The rows of bright round beads adorning precious stones – malachite, turquoise, onyx, carnelian and diamonds – offered multiple ways to wear these jewels as per mood and desire.
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The latest Perlée diamonds pavé rings enrich the collection to allow the creation of a wide range of personal jewellery ensembles. The bracelets, rings or pendants bordered with golden beads can accompany Perlée clovers, or play perfectly off the elegant curves of Alhambra creations.
So if you want to create your own expression through jewellery, the Perlée collection is a great way to start. You can mix, match, stack or just go solo with these classy Van Cleef & Arpels pieces.
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French luxury maison’s Tartelette ring from 1948 has been reimagined for the modern day to mix, match or stack with existing pieces in the collection – or simply stun solo