The models fighting for diversity in fashion: from hijab-wearing Halima Aden to transgender actress Andreja Pejić and plus-size catwalk queen Paloma Elsesser
One hopes that in the future, seeing a plus-size, transgender or wheelchair-using cover star will be just another day in fashion. Here’s a look at some of the modelling world’s most groundbreaking and pioneering talents helping to change the narrative.
Paloma Elsesser
In December, Elsesser landed American Vogue’s first solo cover dedicated to a plus-sized model. Industry colleague Ashley Graham previously graced the cover of Vogue twice, albeit once in a group shot and another while heavily pregnant.
Elsesser’s moment capped off a year which finally saw plus-sized women, including Precious Lee and Jill Kortleve, appear on the runways of Valentino, Fendi, Versace and Alexander McQueen, hopefully with more major brands to follow.
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Munroe Bergdorf
L’Oreal UK announced Bergdorf as its first transgender model in 2017, but dropped her just months later after she posted online that “all white people” were racist in response to the white supremacist riots unfolding in the US. As Bergdorf’s career suffered and she received death threats and hate mail, she switched her focus to public advocacy.
During 2020’s George Floyd protests, the public lambasted L’Oreal’s statement of anti-racist solidarity, recalling its treatment of Bergdorf just a few years prior. She finally received an apology and was appointed to the company’s Diversity and Inclusion Board. Bergdorf later covered Time’s Next Generation Leaders issue and continues her anti-racist and trans rights activism.
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Halima Aden
Fashion’s most famous hijab-wearing model broke out in 2017, and worked with everyone from Max Mara to Fenty Beauty; Vogue Arabia to Sports Illustrated.
Aden announced her shocking exit from modelling in November 2020, revealing that she’d felt increasingly compromised in her beliefs and tokenised. For all Aden’s incredible success, it’s clear that fashion still has a lot to learn when it comes to authentically and respectfully representing models that wear the hijab.
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Aaron Philip
Philip, who is transgender and has cerebral palsy, became the first black trans model with a disability to sign to a major agency (Elite) in 2018. Her editorial CV now boasts enviable titles including Paper, Allure, i-D, and Dazed.
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Andreja Pejic
Way back in 2013, Andreja Pejic had the unique and unenviable task of managing a mid-career transition when she came out as a trans woman. She was originally marketed by her agencies as an androgynous model, and was targeted with hostile press coverage both before and after coming out.
Pejic endured misgendering, invasive debates about her body parts and being degradingly fetishised by FHM. While she’s no longer as active in the fashion industry, the precedents set by Pejic’s struggles paved the way for the next generation of trans models – Euphoria actor Hunter Schafer and Teddy Quinlivan among them.
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Aimee Mullins
Most famous for opening an Alexander McQueen show in intricately carved wooden legs, model, Paralympic athlete, and double amputee Aimee Mullins was also a L’Oreal ambassador between 2011 and 2014.
Mullins has since established herself as a public speaker and actress, but her legacy endures as a star during one of fashion modelling’s least diverse periods.
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Change makers: Paloma Elsesser was the first plus-size US Vogue cover model, Munroe Bergdorf caused controversy as a transgender activist at L’Oreal and Halima Aden modelled for Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty in a hijab