Watches and Wonders 2022: 5 new timepieces riding the green dial trend, from the Patek Philippe 5270P-014 and Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic, to IWC Top Gun Woodland

With Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green, whose green dial fades to black on the perimeter, H. Moser & Cie have reinvented fumé with a much more complicated technique. Photo: H. Moser & Cie

Green dials are here to stay as what used to be a niche market has become a staple in regular collections, and the colour is offered in an increasing number of ways and materials. Here are five watchmakers’ takes on the eye-catching hue ...

1. H. Moser & Cie

What do you do when everyone is following in your footsteps? The team at H. Moser & Cie, the undisputed pathfinder in the last few years’ return of fumé dials – must have asked themselves this very question before Watches and Wonders. With the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green, whose green dial fades to black on the perimeter, they have therefore doubled down with a much more complicated technique. The dial, hammered to a fine yet rugged texture, is then smoothed with grand feu enamel. This technique requires 12 firings at more than 600 degrees Celsius. By applying different pigments in the firings, the brand achieved a stunning graduated result and this métiers d’art has been truly made the star – the dial has no logo even, with only three simple hands showing the time.

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2. Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe launched a racing green version of the 5270P-014. Photo: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe 5270P-014 wears more of a racing green that also fades to black, but here the company that makes a staggering 66,000 luxury watches a year opted for a somewhat simpler technique. That’s not to say they cut corners: there’s nothing simple about this grand complication watch powered by a manually wound calibre, which features a chronograph, perpetual calendar and moonphase.

3. IWC

The IWC Top Gun Woodland features a Pantone Woodland ceramic green case. Photo: IWC

The ceramic case of the IWC Top Gun Woodland is forest green – or to be precise, Pantone Woodland. That meant collaborating with the erstwhile arbiters of colour to create a unique hue for its zirconium oxide blend. The rest of the watch – dial as well as rubber strap – is very close to the new hue too, creating a near-monochromatic statement. The watches were suitably presented in a room with a vertical garden backdrop, and afterwards guests were served woodland-coloured macaroons. No joke.

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4. Hublot

Hublot’s jungle green Big Bang Integral Ceramic. Photo: Hublot

Over at Hublot, the brand also presented a jungle green Big Bang Integral Ceramic, where the bracelet is also made of ceramic, creating an even more monochrome effect overall. Each model of this skeletonised chronograph (it also comes in blue and beige) is limited to 250 pieces.

5. Panerai

Panerai’s Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Verde Smeraldo. Photo: Panerai

Finally, after all that time in the forest, it was refreshing to dive into the submerged world of Panerai, whose Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Verde Smeraldo has a polished gradient dial and bezel. On this watch, it’s not only the colour that is green: 52 per cent of the weight of the watch is recycled, including much of the steel as well as the two accompanying straps made either of recycled PET or rubber.

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  • As the brand that brought back fumé dials, H. Moser & Cie impressed with the painstakingly crafted Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green, which requires 12 firings
  • Panerai launched the sustainable Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Verde Smeraldo created with recycled materials, while Patek Philippe cast the 5270P-014 in racing green