Birds tweeted – not fashionistas – the day Chanel brought its couture guests to the calm of the Bois de Boulogne forest. On Tuesday morning, July 5, bleary-eyed VIPs walked across tons of white sand through the Etrier de Paris equestrian centre on the leafy outskirts of Paris, past lines of spinning wheels and inflatable capsules as nature, fashion and art mingled. The dreamscape had been specially made for autumn/winter by artist Xavier Veilhan, who had adorned Chanel’s indoor ring venue with a gargantuan silver mobile. It had guests – including Marion Cotillard and Keira Knightley – gawping. With a somewhat incongruous drum rendition via video recording, Chanel ambassador Pharrell Williams rousingly kicked off proceedings before the “real” show began – to soft music and even softer form. Gentle colours, lines and shapes, punctuated by moments of dazzling buttons, floaty plumes and large hats was the simple formula for Virginie Viard . The French designer was in a soft mood for couture this season, letting subtle twists do the talking. Meet Dylan and Paris Brosnan, Pierce Brosnan’s fashion model sons A loose pastel green skirt suit opened, lined with minutely sparkling crystalline buttons made by the stalwart’s world famous atelier. It led on to fastidious embroideries and jacquards on loose coats in speckled mint and sand with often-oversized or upturned collars, laden with an air of the 80s. A-line coats with a weighty swag, dropped waists and statement pockets, meanwhile, introduced subtle tensions – alongside hems and fringing in contrasting patterns. Yet the best looks were those that kept it minimal. A ribbed olive green gown with a clean strap across the bust flared out at the bottom – in a clever take on a mermaid dress. It towed a perfect line between sporty and chic. Yet, there’s a niggling feeling that Viard has been playing it safe ever since replacing Karl Lagerfeld, who died in 2019 . Want more stories like this? Follow STYLE on Facebook , Instagram , YouTube and Twitter .