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Paris Fashion Week: Hermès goes Burning Man? Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s spring/summer 2023 collection employs earthen tones and a desert planet backdrop to underline the power of simplicity

STORYAssociated Press
Unveiled at Paris Fashion Week on October 1, the Hermès Spring-Summer 2023 show saw creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski use earthen tones and a desert planet backdrop to suggest the power of simplicity. Photo: AFP
Unveiled at Paris Fashion Week on October 1, the Hermès Spring-Summer 2023 show saw creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski use earthen tones and a desert planet backdrop to suggest the power of simplicity. Photo: AFP
Paris Fashion Week

  • Vanhee-Cybulski went for a minimalist take on the 1980s, with a lone pulsating crystal to establish the idea that simplicity can be the most powerful of all
  • Tunic minidresses and unfussy slim silhouettes were showcased without jewellery or make-up in sight, all serving the central theme of less being more

A giant, glowing crystal rock upon a sand-coloured carpet evoked a glamorous alien planet for Hermès’ champagne-sipping VIP guests at the brand’s Paris Fashion Week show on Saturday.

Models present the Hermès ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection in Paris on October 1. Photo: AP
Models present the Hermès ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection in Paris on October 1. Photo: AP
A model presents a creation from the Hermès ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week on October 1. Photo: Xinhua
A model presents a creation from the Hermès ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week on October 1. Photo: Xinhua
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Earthen hues – browns, reds and yellows, colours long-associated with the heritage brand – were widely used by creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski in her utilitarian, low-key yet luxuriant universe for spring.

Some observers even compared the collection to the notoriously utopian Burning Man desert festival.

Another earthy look from the Hermès ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 collection shown on October 1. Photo: Xinhua
Another earthy look from the Hermès ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 collection shown on October 1. Photo: Xinhua
As ever with Hermès, bags were key to the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week. Photo: AFP
As ever with Hermès, bags were key to the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week. Photo: AFP

It was Vanhee-Cybulski’s minimalist take on the 1980s, with the lone pulsating crystal projecting colour from the centre of the runway to establish the collection’s key idea: simplicity is powerful.

Simplicity was central to the Hermès spring/summer 2023 collection, with little jewellery and make-up in evidence. Photo: AFP
Simplicity was central to the Hermès spring/summer 2023 collection, with little jewellery and make-up in evidence. Photo: AFP
Another earthy look, along with box platforms, seen on Hermès’ Paris Fashion Week runway on October 1. Photo: AP
Another earthy look, along with box platforms, seen on Hermès’ Paris Fashion Week runway on October 1. Photo: AP
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