“I look at everything we have as content – whether it’s apparel, jewellery or even the store. Ambush is not just a brand, it is a platform to exercise our ideas. Everything we do is inspired by something we are personally interested in, whether it’s culture, music or Web3,” says the 46-year-old, during a visit to the brand’s Hong Kong boutique, which opened in December 2022.

“All the DNA we have created is not a blueprint of someone else’s work. We organically got to where we are because we are curious people.”

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Ahn started a design studio in the early noughties in Tokyo, along with Verbal, now her husband, then a rising star in the local rap scene.

She became his stylist and the two went on to design a jewellery line that combined elements of American hip-hop culture and Japanese streetwear. It wasn’t long before they had legions of celebrity fans, including Nigo, Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Kanye West.

While Ambush set off on its trajectory to becoming one of fashion’s coolest labels, Ahn made a name for herself by flexing her creative muscles beyond its universe. She started collaborating with companies including jeweller Bulgari and the NBA, where she became the first woman to design a female-focused collection. More recently she partnered with carmaker Rolls-Royce for their Spirit of Ecstasy programme.

In 2018 she took on the role of creative director for Dior Men jewellery alongside friend, mentor and fellow designer Kim Jones.

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“I like to learn from different industries. It sounds crazy but every collaboration I’ve done has come to me because I am open to exploring how we can create touchpoints that connect with new communities,” she says.

“If it’s meant to be, it will happen. All I can control is my ideas and realise them one at a time. I don’t live to become a creative director of a certain house or project, it’s the wrong way of approaching life and your creative journey.”

On a personal level, she is often named alongside a group of creatives – including Pharrell Williams and Abloh – who are changing up how luxury brands work while bringing a fresh perspective and relevance to what is still viewed by many as a staid industry.

“You have to look at the big picture of what fashion means in the current landscape. Everything is a platform now, and houses need content. Yes, they sell luxury goods that are known for their quality, that’s a given. But what everyone wants is entertainment and content,” she says.

“It’s not good or bad, it is what it is. Does it mean that [every brand] needs to do it? No. It’s important we live in that time now, so houses should be more honest about where they stand and what they want to do and have fun with it. There are no rules. We need to do whatever works and speak to your customers.”

Ahn may be in demand but she remains committed to Ambush. While she’s open to working on multiple ideas and projects, she is careful not to over-expand and move too quickly.

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“I am involved in everything and there’s a challenge that comes with growth. It sounds boring but I want to strengthen everything we have built. Web3 is not a marketing exercise and we are devoted to connecting it to what we have in the physical.

“With collaborations we are interested in non-fashion related things because we are looking for different outlets for people to get interested in our vision,” she adds. “Doing something unexpected is good, but it shouldn’t be for the sake of it. We can’t lose focus.”