Michael Kors says success lies in refusing to be a snob
Every third woman these days totes a Michael Kors handbag. Their ubiquity goes some way to explaining his success. He pre-empted the obsession with âmid-marketâ priced architecture years ago. The present trend for âaccessible luxuryâ? You could almost say he invented it.
âMy wheels started turning a long time ago,â he says, when I ask him why he decided to make his bags so relatively affordable, recalling a time in the early 1990s when he was in Bergdorf Goodman on the first day of its seasonal sale. He watched as women ârushed the racksâ looking for bargains, and had a lightbulb moment. âWhy am I not thinking about them? Why canât I be more democratic?
âNot just with handbags â with shoes, jewellery, watches, everything. The reality is that people mix up everything anyway. When I was 20, I might have literally spent a monthâs rent on buying a jacket and then wore it with a pair of thrift shop pants. For a lot of fashion people, price and the idea of wearability and saleability are dirty words. As are age, size, height. I never felt that way, even a long time ago, because I did so many trunk shows and personal events. I was so young when I started; if I hadnât done that, I truly would have been designing in the dark.â
Korsâ success lies in his refusal to be a snob. Or rather, in his yearning to be inclusive. He is interested in people. More unusually still, he appears to treat them all the same. âEven with celebrities, I mean, I can be pretty blunt with them,â he says devilishly. âIâll say: âYou look like you canât move in that. Take it offâ.â
No wonder close friends such as Liza Minnelli, Bette Midler, Kate Hudson, Sarah Jessica Parker and Blake Lively all adore him. âThe simple truth is that if you understand people and youâre curious about them, itâs a huge leg-up. Whenever I talk to students or designers who are just starting their business, I say: âHave you spent time in a store? Are you on the street?â And also: âAre you only friends with other fashion people? Because if you are, itâs a disaster. Get out of your bubbleâ.â
Korsâ birth name is Karl Anderson, but when his mother, a former model, remarried businessman Bill Kors, she gave him the option to change his first name, too. He was a child model growing up in Merrick, New York â he appeared in a TV ad for Lucky Charms â then an actor, before enrolling at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York in 1977.
âI grew up with very opinionated women,â he says. âThey loved to debate. The men, never. But the women in our family would fight over clothes. I listened to all of it. A lot of fashion people, they burn their past: My family? Oh no, I donât want to talk about them. They made you. You donât want to get them dressed? I do. Iâm interested. I listen to everything. Iâve had the same housekeeper in New York for 27 years. She has two daughters, and they wear Michael Kors. One of them is very petite. Tiny. She told me she tried on this coat and it overwhelmed her. The next thing you know, we started doing petite sizes. We make an American size 16 for the runway collection, but we also make a size 0. I donât care if youâre 17 or 70. Everyoneâs looking for similar answers. Maybe Iâm old-fashioned, but I think thatâs my job.â
It takes a peculiar kind of snob to ignore the potential dividends of dressing everyone, as opposed to a narrow remit of slim and wealthy people just like them. Yet, so afraid are some luxury brands of doing anything to tarnish their perceived exclusivity that they seem to act in a snobbish way. Fabulous, if your brand is in rude health. Otherwise? Good luck with that. Particularly now, in the midst of such global financial uncertainty.
Some fashion critics might dismiss Kors as too âcommercialâ, but what he may lack in creative spark, he makes up for in strategy. In the same deft way that he identified an overlooked market, he also identified his customersâ rapidly shrinking time frame in which to shop. Everyone is overloaded: and so he has embraced what he calls âpunctuation pointsâ. âTheyâre the signifiers of how you get dressed,â he explains. âItâs a fabulous coat or jacket, itâs an amazing bag, itâs the right sunglasses, itâs a shoe thatâs comfortable but cool, and everything else kind of recedes. Those are the look-changers. And fragrance is a signifier. It tells people what mood youâre in, says something about you, finishes you off.â
Asked about the present pace of fashion, he says: âThe calendar globally is insane. Youâre just going to give everyone burnout, and then no one can notice whatâs wonderful.â
âWe used to show 90 looks. Now, Iâm like: âIf this is longer than 11 minutes, Iâm going to kill myselfâ.â
He famously banned guests from Instagramming his Resort collection in June. âPeople are overloaded and seeing too much,â he says. He still loves Instagram, though, and has in excess of eight million followers. âItâs my giant global trunk show.â
ÂA video posted by Michael Kors (@michaelkors) on Nov 15, 2016 at 8:19pm PST
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Kors fiddles with his phone only once when his partner calls him, although he doesnât take the call. He met Lance LePere in 1990 when LePere interned at Korsâ design studio while still a student at Parsons. They married in 2011, right after gay marriage was legalised. âWe have a similar point of view, but weâre different people,â he says of the man he describes as his âright handâ â LePere is also head of Korsâ womenswear.
Kors has a 26-year involvement with Godâs Love We Deliver, the New York charity he first encountered when a friend was ill with Aids. Thanks to a nearly US$8 million city grant â and a roughly US$5 million donation by Kors â it now turns out nearly 1.5 million meals a year to people suffering from Aids, cancer and other illnesses.
âHow lucky am I? How could you not give back?â he says. âItâs my nature. I like results. Thatâs how I approach fashion. Halle [Berry] took her daughter to Nicaragua - she was six at the time - and as soon as they got back to LA she said: âMommy, what can we do to help?â Thatâs the key thing. I want people to feel engaged. You donât have to be rich. People donate US$5.â
If Kors is affectionately known as a name-dropper, itâs clear he does it more out of a duty to entertain than show off. A man who counts Oprah Winfrey, Hillary Clinton and Michelle Obama as clients; whose public offering in 2011 was one of the most successful in fashion history, doesnât need to impress anyone. Kors isnât a boaster. Heâs a people-pleaser. âTry the caviar,â heâd said to me the previous evening at his store opening, after having been unfailingly polite to the stream of guests whoâd asked for selfies.
On the way home, I think about his courtesy and charm, his sense of public duty and propriety, and one thing he said comes back to me. âIâm convinced that itâs an increasingly casual world. I donât know that weâll go back.â
He was talking about the way we dress, but he may as well have been talking about everything. From manners to microshorts, the world has gone casual. And Kors is there to dress it.
This article was originally published in Destination Macau
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From manners to microshorts, the world has gone casual. And Kors is there to dress it