Why Kim Jones brings punk-influenced streetwear to Louis Vuitton
The designer reveals his punk obsession – and why streetwear is the new menswear
Fashion designers might be fabulous, but they also have quirks that fuel their original, eccentric and whimsical creations. What makes Louis Vuitton menswear artistic director Kim Jones tick is his little-known obsession – a museum-worthy collection of punk memorabilia in his London studio.
“I’m an organised hoarder,” Jones says. He laughs, but he is not joking. Hoarder he is.
The proud designer plays a video on his phone that shows a walk-in closet filled with vintage garments and accessories from the 1970s British punk scene. Jones is also organised. He has placed the goodies in a room with a controlled temperature, without natural lighting, and then meticulously documented them all in digital archive.
“It’s been 40 years since punk started and it has completely gone mainstream now,” Jones explains. “I find it inspirational. I can take these ideas and play around them.”
His passion for the subculture shone through the spring-summer 2017 collection – for example, the cropped Tartan vest; pants with engraved D-rings and zigzag stitching; and lace-up creeper brogues in luxurious pony-styled calf leather.
The references weren’t taken literally but subtly mixed with creative elements that included exotic African animals reinterpreted by Jake and Dino Chapman – and Louis Vuitton’s savoir faire.
The collection marks Jones’ second collaboration with the Chapman brothers during his tenure at Louis Vuitton. The controversial British artistic duo created exclusive prints depicting twisted animals including the boggle-eyed elephant, lion, rhino, zebra and giraffe. The prints adorned sleeveless knits, monogram silk shirts and a monogrammed backpack inspired by Louis Vuitton’s vintage steamer bag.
“[The Chapman brothers] don’t fit perfectly within the Louis Vuitton universe, but they work, and that’s what’s really interesting,” Jones says. “It’s this sense of juxtaposition and unexpectedness for the brand. I wanted to do these safari prints that don’t look tacky and the Chapmans did exactly that.”