Curations: Dior’s Rose des Vents collection takes inspiration from the spirit of seafaring with new necklaces, bracelets and earrings
Dior’s Rose des Vents takes historical cues and weaves them into a collection of fine jewellery that embodies the spirit of the ocean and pits whimsy against precious materials, textures and colours.
The current collection includes necklaces, a trio of sautoirs, bracelets and earrings crafted in three types of gold, punctuated with colourful gemstones and precious stones. The designs combine the two enduring sources of inspiration for Rose des Vents – stars and roses.
The collection is one of the French maison’s most symbolic lines, designed by Dior’s creative director of jewellery, Victoire de Castellane; it honours the spirit of the maison’s founder, Christian Dior.
Christian Dior had a love of roses, and was famously superstitious. It was his chance discovery of a star symbol on a pavement that prompted the designer to launch his luxury fashion label in 1946. The star charm has been the maison’s lucky emblem ever since, and an enduring presence guiding de Castellane.
“I wanted to start from the idea of a little motif pendant. And what is more metaphorical than a medallion?” de Castellane says. “In it you find echoes of Christian Dior’s star and the idea of a good-luck charm, but also the rose, his favourite flower.”
Christian Dior spent his childhood at a seaside villa called Les Rhumbs – the name given to the 32 points of a wind rose – rose des vents, in French. The villa is also where the couturier developed his love of roses.
De Castellane’s medallion has become the defining characteristic of Rose des Vents, and is reimagined for the current collection.
In a nod to the sea and the rigging of sailing vessels, a pendant appears as a double-sided medallion with a twist of gold rice grains surrounding it. In a playful reinterpretation, one side of the pendant shows the face of a wind rose, while the reverse is distinguished by a brightly coloured hardstone. The dangling medallion swings from a chain, revealing both faces as the wearer moves.
The trio of sautoirs feature yellow gold and the iconic medallion embedded with colourful gems that recall the aquamarines of the shallows and the deep blues of the ocean with its shimmering reflections: think turquoise, lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl.
Whisper-thin necklaces and bracelets are crafted in three shades of gold: single strands of pink gold are played off against diamonds and mother-of-pearl, the same precious gems appear in a double-stranded white-gold necklace with onyx, while a yellow-gold variation adds a playful touch with colourful stones. A long, yellow-gold necklace stands out for its vivid green malachite. New stud earrings in pink, white and yellow gold are studded with diamonds. The execution is timeless and elegant.
Dior’s jewellery artisans employ an ancient wax technique to carve the Rose des Vents medallions in resin, before casting the gold and adding the final, minute design details that are meticulously applied to each piece.
The Rose des Vents collection is a contemporary reflection of Dior’s roots, and symbolic of the cherished emblems that have accompanied its journey.
“Rose des Vents is also a metaphor for creation,” de Castellane says. “Creating is about searching, turning things over, and then finding one’s cardinal point and setting off on a journey.”
- Victoire de Castellane, creative director of jewellery at Dior, reinterprets the medallion motif that has become the defining characteristic of the collection
- Rose des Vents combines precious metals, textures and gemstones in fine jewellery pieces that embody the spirit of the maison’s founder