“Ice is the most important part of your drink,” declares Jay Khan, founder of the agave-focused bar Coa. “It controls the dilution and temperature of your cocktail. I’d say that 98 per cent of our drinks here use ice, so it’s essential. Not to mention, good clear ice just looks sexy.” Many crucial steps go towards the creation of the perfect cocktail – a good base, the right vessel, an accurate shake or stir – but that frozen water could be so crucial is a surprising professional confession in an industry that has become more upscale in recent years. 6 Singapore speakeasies for cocktails with a punch Brands constantly chill niche and expensive spirits, and more and more bars – at least, those that can afford to – make use of hi-tech equipment like centrifuges and rotavap machines to create their out-of-this-world offerings. In fact, ice has been inextricably linked to the development of cocktails. It was the increasing availability of the stuff that helped popularise cocktails in the 19th century. It should be no surprise that Jerry Thomas published his seminal recipe book, Bar-Tender’s Guide , in 1862 once the Industrial Revolution had made it easier to transport ice long distances before melting. The ability to enjoy an ice-cold drink anytime anywhere was its own revolution. Would you pay US$5,000 for this posh New York cocktail? With ice now readily available, what today’s mixologists obsess over is securing a translucent version of the stuff. The quest for crystal-clear ice is purely to do with aesthetics. It’s a misconception to think any impurities in ice will affect the flavour of your drink. Size, however, is critical. “Ice is essential because it’s a part of the cocktail,” explains Josh Chu, food and drink director of Frank’s, which serves more than 50 blocks of ice on an average night. “The smaller the ice, the faster it melts and dilutes your drink. So some stronger ABV cocktails, such as the Old Fashioned and Negroni, you do not want them to dilute too quickly. Using small ice would ruin them and make them taste like water.” 3 sexy new cocktails that give new meaning to happy hour On Chu’s recommendation, we try a Single Origin Old Fashioned, which surrounds a giant, clear block of ice with bourbon, chocolate bitters, coconut sugar and an orange peel garnish. The use of coconut sugar, which does not taste of the fruit at all, adds an intriguing hint of butterscotch to the classic recipe. It’s dangerously easy to drink. If you want concrete proof that artisanal ice is now a thing in Hong Kong, look no further than Dai Bing – “big ice” in Cantonese – which opened in Sheung Wan earlier this year. Co-founded by Juan Martínez Gregorio, also one of the partners behind popular Sai Ying Pun G&T spot Ping Pong 129, Dai Bing is not just a bar, it’s a “mini ice factory”. Inside Virgin Atlantic's new luxurious upper class section The establishment uses a Clinebell CI-4 machine to produce 25lb blocks of ice, which staff cut with a bandsaw and store in a freezer visible to guests behind the bar area. At Dai Bing, six hours a day are dedicated to creating perfect ice. According to Gregorio, the best ice is completely transparent. “Good ice is similar to a diamond,” he tells us, insisting he is not joking. “You can compare ice by clarity, density and the cut.” 10 bars and restaurants to visit in Kuala Lumpur With that in mind, we try a Horse’s Neck, a mix of cognac, ginger ale and lemon zest. As it’s being prepared, Gregorio says, “When it comes to a long drink, there are only a few elements. So you cannot fail at any one. That is why ice plays such an important role.” The cylindrical block that arrives in our tall glass is, indeed, perfectly clear. It lends the drink a refreshing coolness, which goes nicely with the tang provided by the lemon – perfect for summer.” You do not necessarily need a fancy industry machine to make good ice, though. Back at Coa, which landed at number 12 on this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, the highest new entry, Khan explains to us his more homespun method. “It’s actually very easy,” he insists, before detailing a method known as directional freezing. All you need is a picnic cooler that will fit in your freezer. 5 KL speakeasies with the most creative cocktails in town Fill it with water and put it in the freezer without a lid. With no cover, the ice will freeze from the top downwards, pushing all the impurities to the bottom. Remove your cooler 36 hours later and you’ll have a limpid block of ice and a puddle of water beneath, quarantining all the impurities that result in a cloudy outcome. One of Coa’s signature drink is its caffeinated Negroni, which uses coffee-infused Mancino Vermouth Rosso and a touch of mescal alongside the traditional gin and Campari. As well as its garnish of a thin square of dark chocolate, there’s a completely transparent chunk of ice in the centre of our glass. The coffee provides a wonderful slight acidity and its roasted flavour is accentuated by nibbling on the chocolate in between sips. Ice is just one of the many topics which Khan is passionate about, even if this one has a lot to do with cost. How a 39-year-old whisky sparked a ‘liquid gold’ rush “It’s expensive to buy ice from outside,” he says. “One block of ice in your drink will cost upwards of HK$5. I’d rather we make our own and use a better quality spirit in our cocktails than pay for an expensive piece of ice. Once you grasp the theory behind making your own, it’s magical. It’s so cool.” Want more stories like this? Sign up here . Follow STYLE on Facebook , Instagram and Twitter