‘Daring’ independents inject creativity and dynamism into world of luxury watches and high jewellery
New kids on the block are making their presence felt in the elegant world of watchmaking by throwing caution to the wind
Could this be the dawn of a new era in the world of luxury watches and high jewellery? On the surface, there appears to have been a shift, with independent brands making their presence felt, while international exhibitions are evolving to cater to the industry’s changes.
Take last month’s prestigious jewellery, art and antique fair, the Biennale des Antiquaires, in Paris. Organisers describe the event as one for “art lovers from across the world. The Biennale des Antiquaires has been a must-attend event for more than half a century and quintessentially representative of the French art de vivre”.
Indian jewellery house Nirav Modi exhibited at Biennale for the first time, but Chanel, Bulgari and Boucheron took a break.
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin says: “We know from experience that it’s better [to] display a collection earlier [in the year].”
Babin adds that the brand prefers to launch new products at a time of its choosing instead of waiting for a trade fair. The brand organised exclusive soirees to unveil their latest high jewellery and watch complications at VIP events across the globe.
Luxury conglomerates are not the only ones bailing from the fair. Celebrated independent jewellery artist Wallace Chan, the first Asian to be invited to the Biennale years ago, says there may be several reasons for the withdrawal of high-end brands from luxury fairs, including the market status or changes in the exhibition’s policy that upset previous participants.
Chan did not exhibit this year after two previous appearances as he wanted to explore alternate platforms through which his works would be showcased alongside Monet and Picasso masterpieces.
This is neither the first time, nor the last, Swiss watchmakers have faced a slowdown, and fairs haven’t disappeared because of it