At auction, few assets fare better than designer jewels – here’s why
Designer jewels have extra sparkle when it comes to auction, as buyers jostle for sought-after designs crafted with loving care and imagination
Jewellery created by legendary houses and artists holds value beyond that of the gems and precious materials it is made from.
While only a few pieces have the impeccable provenance traced back to Marie Antoinette that achieved record-breaking prices at a recent auction, limited-edition iconic designs from such storied brands as Harry Winston, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are so coveted that they routinely fetch strong prices at auctions.
Although it is true that top-notch houses always use premium-quality diamonds and coloured gemstones, considerable added value is derived from the creative designs and superb craftsmanship.
One of Cartier’s iconic designs is its Tutti Frutti pieces launched in the 1920s. Each is unique: the signature juxtapositions of diamonds and coloured gemstones carved in the shapes of flowers, fruits and leaves vary from one piece to another. The auction prices of these pieces far exceed the value of the gemstones encrusted in them. A Tutti Frutti bracelet was sold by Sotheby’s Hong Kong for HK$13.9 million (US$1.77 million) – lower estimate: HK$10.5 million – in October 2017.
When a jeweller acquires an important stone, like the 18.96-ct fancy vivid pink diamond, Winston Pink Legacy Diamond, Harry Winston picked up at auction last November at Christie’s Geneva auction for a record HK$390 million, the stone is bound to increase in value once set in the house’s design and engraved with its hallmark.
The same can be said for works from Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget or Chaumet, especially if the pieces are of classic design that displays influence from these maison’s iconic pieces. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Zip necklace, and tiaras from Chaumet, often see their craftsmanship, intricate design and historical relevance add to their value.
