How bespoke high jewellery is created for the super-rich

Beyond limited-edition upscale jewellery, customised and bespoke pieces represent the ultimate exclusivity: they are guaranteed to be unique because the entire process from concept and design to completion occurs with one particular person in mind.

Specially commissioned designs are often the fruit of the collaboration between a jeweller and a private client: they may bear the unmistakable imprint of a brand in terms of its signature designs and renowned crafting techniques.

At the same time, bespoke pieces may subtly convey the personality and distinctive style of the client. Sometimes, a specially commissioned piece may carry symbolic meaning or may mark the celebration of an important occasion shared by only a few.

These are some of the reasons some commissioned pieces, in particular those produced for celebrities and royalty, continue to capture the public’s imagination.

The Duchess of Windsor, a style icon of the early 20th century and a much-admired jewellery connoisseur, was the inspiration for many of Cartier’s specially commissioned pieces, including the original Panthère bracelet, the Flamingo brooch, and the Bib necklace with amethyst, diamonds and turquoise. 

“Jewellery customisation is all about communication and the relationship between the jeweller and the client,” says Jonathan Abram, of Ronald Abram. “Sometimes we work with a client who shows interest in specific gemstones and then we develop the design concept around the stones. There are also clients who come to us already with a concept in mind and we will look for the stones to match that concept.

“The key to satisfying customers is to achieve the desired designs within budget. It’s important to be creative and it’s equally important to be mindful of the budget. A lot of times clients come in with a concept in mind that may not be cost-effective in being made into actual pieces.