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Why are Cartier, Chopard and Qeelin using semi-precious gems in high jewellery?

Qeelin’s Wulu pendant – which combines the bold auspicious red colour, and the ancient Chinese gourd-shape symbol, resembling the lucky number 8 cut out in red agate – symbolises twice the blessings.

The natural beauty of semi-precious gemstones is beguiling those looking for high jewellery that merges modern glamour with innovative technical and imaginative prowess.

Craftsmanship is integral to working with semi-precious gemstones, which need to be meticulously selected before being carefully carved or cut to fit a specific design.

Boucheron’s Nuage de Fleurs necklace set with a 42.96 carat cushion pink tourmaline

From custom-cut malachite and mother-of-pearl to red agate and rock crystal, tourmalines to carved blue chalcedony and more, these stones are bringing magical lustre to contemporary jewels.

Bold and colourful, these semi-precious gems can create as big an impact as their more prestigious counterparts when used in the right designs.

Louis Vuitton’s Apotheosis Cuff with tsavorite, garnet and diamonds

Les Galaxies de Cartier, a collection of limited-edition jewellery, delves into a creative exploration of the cosmos, where new materials have been introduced in unprecedented ways ­to capture its volume.

Cartier’s Trembling Stars bracelet and ring are crafted in 18-carat white gold and set with diamonds, rock crystal and metaquartzite. Diamonds feature in a serti vibrant, or trembling setting protected under a hollow dome of rock crystal.

Used for the first time, metaquartzite – a metamorphic rock criss-crossed with golden pyrite inclusions – acts as the base for these jewellery capsules.

Chopard’s Happy Hearts pendant with diamonds and malachite

Chopard adds two generously sized pendants – 38 millimetres (1.5 inches) and 47.5 millimetres in diameter – to its Happy Hearts Collection, which incorporates clusters of mother-of-pearl or malachite hearts in different sizes. The iconic diamond dancing between two sapphire crystals in a heart shape adds a playful touch.

Moving away from classic gemstones, the bold and extraordinary cocktail pendants are expressed in an original style of stones, in particular the unusual green malachite, where each jewel takes pride of place in a beautiful banded design.

Dior’s Granville green tourmaline ring with multicoloured gemstones

A large green tourmaline takes centre stage in the Dior Granville green tourmaline ring, featuring yellow beryls, iolites, spessartite garnet, rubellite, Paraiba-type tourmalines, red spinels and diamonds.

“Colour plays a starring role,” Victoire de Castellane, artistic director of Dior Joaillerie, says. “The way in which they are assembled creates a sense of equilibrium that means no one colour dominates, giving each one an equal chance to shine.”

Bulgari’s Wild Pop high jewellery necklace

The latest Wulu Red Agate collection by Qeelin pays tribute to the brand’s Chinese heritage.

The combination of the bold auspicious red colour, and the ancient Chinese gourd-shape symbol resembling the lucky number 8 cut out in red agate, symbolise twice the blessings.

“We’ve designed this to be something you’re proud to wear during Lunar New Year or, indeed, at any time of the year ­at all,” Dennis Chan, Qeelin’s creative director and founder, says.

Piaget revisits its Sunlight Escape collection with White Sun Earrings that capture the raw beauty of carved blue chalcedony, adorned with Paraiba tourmalines set in a dramatic sunburst design with diamonds.

Piaget’s earrings with aquamarine

Louis Vuitton makes a bold statement in its Apotheosis Cuff Bracelet by using 12 black onyx stones accentuated by a 17ct tsavorite garnet and diamonds.

Boucheron’s creative director, Claire Choisne, works with extraordinary jewels in the Nature Triomphante collection. Among the jewellery is the grandiose Nuage de Fleurs (cloud of flowers) necklace that has numerous hydrangea flowers of pink gold and lined with mother-of-pearl to create a flower garland lookalike with a gorgeous 42.96ct pink tourmaline at its centre.

Dramatic colour combinations, grand dimensions and daring stories translate into Bulgari’s magnificent Wild Pop high jewellery collection.

Les Galaxies de Cartier Bracelet with metaquartzite

“We are always looking for the impossible,” Nicola Bulgari, vice-chairman of the Roman maison, says.

Like art, the exceptional Wild Pop high jewellery necklace in pink gold breaks the rules, with oval-cut large stones – a 61.64ct rose quartz, 64.87ct milky chalcedony, 74.85ct tourmaline rubellite, 70.98ct green beryl and 66.82ct aquamarine – all set with diamonds.

Inspired by the 1980s, the new collection also pays tribute to the special relationship between the fashion house and Andy Warhol.

“When I am in Rome, I always visit Bulgari because it is the most important museum of contemporary art,” the late American pop artist said.

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  • Vibrant creations by top jewellery houses Bulgari, Boucheron, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Piaget feature semi-precious gems that can have as big an impact as diamonds