Asian jewellery designers sparkle on red carpet alongside titans Bulgari, Chanel and Cartier
While luxury houses continue to grow, the past decade has seen the emergence of Viren Bhagat, Cindy Chao, Anna Hu and Wallace Chan, who work with unconventional materials to create imaginative pieces
In the vibrant sphere of upscale designer jewellery, there are some household international names with impressive heritage that have continued their market dominance, while a growing number of independent designers, many from Asia, are captivating clients with their unconventional creations.
In every era, there are designers who push the envelope by advancing distinctive styles. One is Cartier – a brand that is synonymous with its iconic Tutti Frutti designs and the Panthère series.
As the high jewellery purveyor to the ultra-rich jet set and celebrities, generations of European royals and India’s maharajas, Cartier’s pieces have been influenced by the design elements of diverse cultures.
Some are highly experimental in style, to satisfy the individualistic preferences and tastes of its exclusive clientele.
In the 1920s, Louis Cartier sourced carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires from India that eventually inspired him to make the Tutti Frutti series, says Yvonne Chu, acting head of department, jewellery, at Sotheby’s Asia.
This helped set the trend for top-end jewellers enriching their artistic expression with diverse cultural references. The approach has had a profound influence on successive generations of designers.
“We have continued to see this design influence from India and it’s not just in Cartier now,” Chu says, adding that some contemporary jewellers, such as India’s Viren Bhagat, are sought-after internationally.
In October 2017, in Hong Kong, Sotheby’s sold a ring with the Maniraja ruby and diamonds with a distinctive Indian aesthetic for HK$81.7 million (US$10.4 million).