Why platinum will never lose its lustre with luxury jewellery ateliers
Its gleaming qualities, durability and ability to pair with diamonds and gems ensure this metal endures for haute joaillerie
Platinum had a particular allure in the early to mid 20th century in Hollywood’s golden age and many of this year’s red carpet looks, bedecked with the luxurious metal, have been paying homage to that old world of glamour. From the Venice Film Festival to Cannes and the Met Gala, finely crafted ribbons of light have held a white-hot sparkle. Facing the press on the Croisette at the premiere of The Beguiled, Liu Wen brought a modern fresh-faced demeanour to her Chopard platinum and white diamond earrings.

US$938 per ounce whereas gold is U$1,270 per ounce.

From a design viewpoint, platinum enables the shape of a creation and gemstone selection to create the first impression. Australia’s Michael and David Robinson, the founders of David Michael Jewels, are jewellers with a compelling dexterity with platinum when exalting nature’s beauty.
“The colour of platinum disappears into the background and allows the colours of the gems we use, like Argyle pink diamonds, to stand out without distraction,” explains David of their preferred material. “Hand forged platinum also affords great density and therefore durability to our pieces. This allows us to cut the metal holding the gems in place much finer than they would have to be in any other metal.”

“We have definitely seen an increased use of platinum in our Couture Design Awards competition over the past few years,” says Michelle Orman, president of Last Word Communications and spokeswoman for the Couture Design Awards, the jewellery industry Couture fair competition held annually in Las Vegas. “Not only are there more submissions created in platinum across many of our categories, the submissions themselves push the envelope of creativity.”
As for investment considerations, being 30 times rarer than gold, it is not difficult to see how this metal is gaining desirability. Its colour’s appeal is not just for a sense of purity that might appeal to young brides. As a white metal, its prized silvery whiteness and luminosity remain unchanged as over time there is no possibility platinum’s colour will fade to yellow like white gold. Another plus is that it is virtually non-corrosive, and this ability to resist oxidation allows component parts to be finished before soldering, which is great for intricate, hard-to-reach corners of jewellery.

Some of history’s most legendary diamonds are set in platinum, such as the Oppenheimer Blue, the most expensive ring in the world. The 14.62ct emerald-cut Vivid Blue diamond which is flanked by two trapeze-cut white diamonds, on a platinum band, went for US$$57.7 million in May 2016, through Christie’s Geneva.

Egyptians produced gold jewellery with traces of platinum as early as 1200BC, but it was not until 1751, when Swedish scientist Theopil Scheffer categorised it as a precious metal, that it was applied to jewellery uses and gained its regal admirers; with France’s King Louis XVI even declaring it the only metal fit for kings. Today, Queen Elizabeth II’s timeless engagement ring from Prince Philip can still be admired 70 years on, with its platinum band and a 3ct solitaire diamond and five smaller diamonds on
each side.
Choosing a platinum piece doesn’t mean siding against gold; accenting platinum with 18ct gold can be beautiful. Care of the metal can be problematic as platinum can scratch more easily than gold despite its durability, so may not always be appropriate for men’s wedding rings. And actually some purists enjoy this very patina or softened lustre of its own that develops over time. This finish that is unique to platinum can symbolise authenticity or a piece of jewellery that has lived well.
This ultimate metal, the perfect host for diamonds and the romantic choice for engagement and eternity rings, isn’t beyond reach either. Canny designers are appealing to millennials with bridal options starting at below US$3,000 proving entry platinum is possible. It doesn’t have to be all about couture gowns but they do show them off splendidly.