Cartier’s international marketing and communications director Arnaud Carrez says this is a healthy sign of the times and a considerate effort by the fair organisers to accommodate the needs and demands of journalists and buyers.

“I think it’s a good decision,” he says. “If you look at SIHH and Baselworld, they are different but complementary. It has a lot of positive implications, especially for the visitor.

“They will only have to come once. I think it will simplify the lives of watch retailers and journalists.”

There also were a few ins and outs among the brands. The most noticeable absentee was Van Cleef & Arpels. New to the halls is independent watchmaker Bovet. The brand’s CEO, Pascal Raffy, says Bovet came for the fair’s ability to attract high-level collectors.

“We don’t have the pressure to sell here. We are here to educate collectors and convey a message and our presence here could end up with them becoming a collector [of Bovet].”

Despite the announcement by Audemars Piguet that its 2019 run at SIHH was its last, other brands are showing confidence in the success of the fair’s new format in recent years.

Carré des Horlogers, where independent brands gather, continues to expand its number of brands, while the fair now welcomes the public on its last day.

When it comes to trends, one colour outshone any other this year. This is the year green looks set to overshadow blue, which has hitherto dominated the dials and straps of numerous brands over the past five years. The combination of bronze case and green dial in particular were the stand-out combos at both IWC and Montblanc.

IWC’s creative director, Christian Knoop, says its new Spitfire Pilot’s Watch collection, which features several references with movements at different levels of complexity – including the fighter-inspired Automatic Spitfire with a bronze green dial and matching Nato straps – will become timeless classics.

Other brands embracing the earthy shade are Panerai and Piaget, which have incorporated it by way of dial accents and straps.

Panerai’s announcement of the Submersible as a stand-alone collection includes the addition of the Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech PAM00961 featuring green dial accents.

Piaget, meanwhile, brings the shade to its Polo design, with a blue-green dial and green alligator strap.

Anthony Tsang, Oriental Watch Company’s senior marketing manager, Greater China, tips us off to another growing trend, referencing some of the cleanest dials that are blessed with watchmaking’s most complicated function. He observes “the return of the tourbillon [that are] minimalist in design, sparse in function and value-priced”.

Pieces that have gone this route include Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon and H. Moser & Cie’s Venturer Tourbillon, with a gradient gem-set dial of blue sapphires around its tourbillon.

The year also sees watchmakers thinking beyond gender: designs are no longer restricted by male/female preferences.

Instead, manufacturers are focusing on good watchmaking that will attract universal appreciation.

Audemars Piguet’s much-talked-about Code 11.59 is the biggest launch the brand has seen in years.

The brand opted to communicate the design and ethos of the watch, available only in one size (41mm) with messages from ambassadors including Serena Williams and Swedish golfer Henrik Stenson.

This, according to the brand’s historian, Michael Friedman, ties in with the contemporary aesthetics of the design itself and the brand not wanting to restrict the appeal of the new launch.

The Cartier Privé Tonneau and Richard Mille’s BonBon Collection – polar opposites, one classic and demure, the other wildly colourful and vibrant – have also taken this approach.

The unisex trend extends to gem-set timepieces as well, with two watchmakers embracing the rainbow gem-set bezel.

Audemars Piguet has opted to accent the iconic Royal Oak with a colourful bezel to create the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow”, as did Parmigiani for its Tonda 1950 collection, in pink gold paired with a blue leather strap.

This is not to say watchmakers overlooked the ladies this year. Both Piaget and Jaeger-LeCoultre, led by female CEOs since 2018, seem to understand that bigger, and more, is often better when it comes to diamonds.

Each brand upped the shine on its flagship women’s references – Piaget more than doubled the number of carats on the 32mm Limelight Gala, while Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous now has two rows of diamonds around its bezel.

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