STYLE Edit: Chanel’s new Camélia collection celebrates Coco’s love of the ‘forbidden flower’

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was smitten by the simplicity of the sober, scentless and thorn-free camellia. She would often pair white camellias with her monochromatic dresses, and the motif gradually became part of her design language. From the chandeliers and coromandel screens in her flat to her clothing and jewellery collections, the flower became an emblem for her fashion house.

Every year, the maison presents a new interpretation of the camellia – on rings, brooches, pendants, necklaces and the brand’s embroidered watch dials. Chanel was fascinated by the perfect symmetry of this flower and it inspired her to create youthful jewellery for her clients The graphic latticework in the Pétales de Camélia ring is the most striking example of the versatility of this motif. Although the ring in 18-carat yellow gold is sizeable in its proportions, the petals wrap around the finger beautifully.

Be it the clip-on Extrait de Camélia ear studs or the delicate bud motif pendant and earrings in 18-carat white gold and diamonds, the fine jewellery collection encapsulates Chanel’s casual style and elegance. One of the most stunning pieces in this line is the Impression Camélia cuff, a flexible bracelet spun in yellow gold featuring the flowers and the matching layered Impression necklace. Truly a work of art, the cuff is an ideal example of Chanel’s taste and an emblem of the French maison.

Also known as the “Japanese rose”, camellia is mostly found in Asian countries and symbolises long-lasting devotion. Chanel developed a fondness for camellias the moment she was presented with a bouquet by her lover, Captain Arthur Edward “Boy” Capel.

The flower appealed to Chanel’s provocative taste because of it was seen as a forbidden flower, which is androgynous and ambiguous in nature. She preferred camellia’s purity to the opulence of a rose. The delicate, round petals of this flower – a symbol of purity and longevity – became central to her style in 1913, and she started adorning herself with silk versions of the flower. This became one of her most favoured desired codes for haute couture and fine jewellery during her lifetime. The flower has featured in nearly every Chanel collection since the 1920s, and has been crafted from a variety of materials – enamel, diamonds, rubies and more.