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Laos
AsiaSoutheast Asia

The Laos teenagers beating poverty and getting an education as novice monks

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Women sitting along a street giving food to begging monks early in the morning in the town of Luang Prabang. Photo: AFP
Agence France-Presse

Each dawn, lines of teenage monks in orange robes criss-cross the temple-studded streets of Luang Prabang, the religious heart of Laos and the storied seat of kings and colonisers.

They gather in the gloom to receive alms – normally freshly cooked rice or snacks – from the faithful, a ritual that weaves spiritual and practical bonds between the novice monks and the community they serve.

It is the centrepiece of the strict daily routine undertaken by hundreds of novices drawn from poor, rural villages to the ancient temples which fleck the Unesco-listed town.
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Many come to receive an education denied to them in the overcrowded and underfunded village schools.

They also gain a venerated position in society. Elders ‘wai’ – a respectful greeting with hands pressed together and a slight bow of the head – when addressing them despite their callow years.

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But the boys miss out on many of the routine freedoms and experiences of teenagers across Asia.

“We wake up at 3.30 am and pray. Then we receive alms, we eat lunch, clean the dishes and then walk in a procession to meditate,” said 12-year-old Xeonic who was sent to join a temple after his mother died.

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