Thai street food chef propelled to new culinary heights by Michelin star – she wonders what took them so long
In recent months, officials in the military-ruled country who see street food as an illegal nuisance have warned hawkers to clear out of some of the city’s neighbourhoods
After spending more than three decades cooking in an unassuming outdoor kitchen, a wok-wielding, goggles-wearing Thai chef has been propelled to international culinary stardom by having her restaurant awarded a Michelin star.
Supinya Jansuta, better known as “Jay Fai”, was among 17 Bangkok-based chefs whose venues received the coveted honour from Michelin in a guidebook released last month – its first foray into the country.
Jay Fai, as her restaurant is also known, is often featured in foreign travel guides but is mostly shunned by Thais for its high prices of what is generally considered cheap local food. But a closer examination of the 72-year-old chef’s dishes reveals an abundance of fresh seafood and prime ingredients.
“The No. 1 thing with Jay Fai is people say it’s too expensive,” said Oliver Irvine, editor of the English-language weekly BK Magazine, which regularly critiques Bangkok’s food scene.
“This is an old classic hole-in-the wall place which charges 800-1,000 baht (US$24-31) for its famous crab omelette, which is nowhere near street-food prices. But when you cut that thing open, it’s literally bursting with the freshest crab in the whole city.”
