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New spaces for Singaporean street food ‘do not benefit hawkers’ despite good intentions

  • The government handed management of 13 of the city’s 114 hawker centres to social enterprises, which do good while also earning a profit
  • But some of the new centres that are managed by social enterprises have been criticised over poor management, high rentals and strict conditions

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Singapore’s Maxwell Food Centre. Photo: Handout

A social enterprise model for some of Singapore’s hawker centres has been criticised over high costs and poor management, as the nation tries to revitalise its popular food stalls.

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The hawker centres, which offer local and regional foods for just a couple of dollars, are an ever present part of Singapore life and a source of pride, with two stalls having won a Michelin star in 2016 – the first street food stalls to do so.

The government, which manages the hawker centres, sees them as vital in providing jobs for the less privileged, ensuring cheap meals for low-income residents and attracting tourists. But the trade is struggling with competition and a failure to lure younger talent.

Seeking solutions, the government handed management of 13 of the city’s 114 hawker centres to social enterprises, which do good while also earning a profit. But some of the new centres that are managed by social enterprises have been criticised over poor management, high rentals and strict conditions imposed on hawkers, many of whom are elderly.

“The intention is good, but they’ve turned something that is meant for public good into something for private good,” said Jack Sim, a social worker and entrepreneur. “The model does not benefit hawkers.”

Singapore’s National Environment Agency (NEA), which oversees hawker centres, did not respond to emails seeking comment. The NEA has said that despite the problems, the social enterprise model is “here to stay”, and that it benefits hawkers, cleaners and patrons.

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Singaporean hawker Chan Hon Meng at his Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle stall. Photo: AFP
Singaporean hawker Chan Hon Meng at his Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle stall. Photo: AFP
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