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ChinaDiplomacy

North Korean restaurant in Beijing feels the pinch amid stand-off with Seoul

Seoul has instructed its citizens to not patronise the Pyongyang affiliated restaurants that usually pull in a steady stream of foreign currency

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North Korean performers entertain customers at the Okryugwan restaurant in Beijing. Photo: AP
Associated Press

Shortly after 7.30pm, the waitresses at China’s biggest North Korean restaurant become singers.

They emerge for their nightly performances in orange and purple satin dresses and stiletto heels, belting out ballads with their arms extended, would-be divas shimmering under hot lights.

On some other night, when the house is packed and the alcoholic drink, soju, flowing, this might set off a singalong, with tables of South Korean tourists clapping wholesomely in the front and smoky huddles of their expat businessmen compatriots leering not-so-wholesomely from the back. But not tonight.

Read more: Trade can do what threats cannot, and bring North Korea in from the cold

In the northeast corner of Beijing, the Okryugwan restaurant is feeling the far-flung effects of the latest stand-off on the Korean Peninsula. Since the North conducted a nuclear test in January and went ahead with a rocket launch earlier this month, Seoul has instructed its citizens to not patronise the government-affiliated North Korean restaurants that usually pull in a steady stream of curious South Korean travellers, and their precious foreign currency.

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A North Korean waitress waits at the entrance for customers at the Okryugwan restaurant in Beijing. Photo: AP
A North Korean waitress waits at the entrance for customers at the Okryugwan restaurant in Beijing. Photo: AP

“We usually have many tables of South Korean tourists, but business is not good,” North Korean waitress Han Ahn-min said as she poured tea at one of just a handful of occupied tables in a high-ceilinged dining hall capable of welcoming visitors by the busload.

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“The weather is bad,” she said in smooth Putonghua and smiled.

“There are the other factors right now, too.”

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