Chinese brewery marks traumatic Wuhan coronavirus lockdown with ‘stay strong’ craft beer

After Wang Fan’s business nearly folded when the city was shut down for months he released a special brew to ‘let people know our story’
Labels peel back to reveal black-and-white photographs of the fight against the virus and a poem – and all 100,000 cans were snapped up

Coronavirus China

Agence France-Presse

Published: 4:30pm, 3 Dec 2020

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When the coronavirus emerged in Wuhan and the Chinese city went into a strict 76-day lockdown, Wang Fan resolved to commemorate the turbulent period in the way he knew best – through beer.

Wang is a leading figure in the burgeoning world of Chinese craft beer and the Wuhan native founded one of the country’s first specialised breweries, the No 18 Brewery, in 2013.

But his business – which includes four bars and a brewery in Wuhan – nearly folded after the central city of 11 million people was forced into a particularly tough lockdown on January 23 that would drag on until early April.

Life is now getting back to normal in Wuhan, where the coronavirus was first detected about a year ago before becoming a pandemic, but about 4,000 people died there and the mental scars remain.

The label features images of medical personnel in hazmat suits, community workers in masks and a deserted bridge over the Yangtze River. Photo: AFP

That traumatic period is recalled in a beer made by Wang and his team called “Wuhan Jia Ha Zi You”, or “Wuhan Stay Strong”.

Released in April, it was a way to “let people know our story” of what the city and its people endured, said 36-year-old Wang.

The cans have a label that peels back to reveal a chronology of those long weeks with haunting black-and-white photographs.

Pictures include medical personnel in hazmat suits, masked community workers and a deserted bridge running over the Yangtze River.

Filmmakers capture horror and humanity of Wuhan’s coronavirus lockdown

There is also a poem inscribed on the wrap-around label by the popular novelist Wang Xiaobo.

“If I can shine, don’t be afraid of darkness; if I am so beautiful, then all fear can be dispelled,” it reads.

“Wuhan Stay Strong” is a sweet, seasonal “sakura beer” inspired by the cherry blossom that gives parts of Wuhan a pink hue in spring.

The No 18 Brewery is at the forefront of the craft beer scene in Wuhan and China. Photo: AFP

There are about 30 craft-beer bars in Wuhan and the scene is growing steadily, according to Wang.

His No 18 Brewery is at the forefront locally and nationally, conjuring up beers that often incorporate features or ingredients that are particular to Wuhan and China.

They once made a “Breakfast Stout” that used black sesame seeds usually associated with a well-known noodle dish eaten for breakfast in the city. Another beer used Chinese tea, while another coconut.

“Nine-Head Phoenix”, an India pale ale (IPA), is named after a mythical creature once worshipped in what is now Hubei, the province where Wuhan is located.

The business was hit hard by the pandemic – the brewery had to dump up to 12,000 litres of stock and its four bars were closed for over three months. Photo: AFP

The No 18 Brewery sells its beer, which has won an array of awards, not only in China but also in Taiwan and Macau.

But like many companies in Wuhan and beyond, the business has been hit hard by the pandemic.

For starters, they had to dump up to 12,000 litres of stock.

“It was devastating. We nearly collapsed. All of our bars were closed for more than three months,” Wang said.

Life resumed only very slowly when the lockdown was lifted, but the summer months brought a welcome boom as the people of Wuhan let their hair down.

All 100,000 cans of “Wuhan Stay Strong” were snapped up.

“It sold out the minute we released it because everyone wants to support Wuhan in some way,” Wang said.

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