Wong Wing-lung, owner of Chan Hong Kee restaurant, evolves his menu to keep up with the city’s tastes. Photo: Paul Yeung

Why Hong Kong’s local cuisine has evolved to become a symbol of the city’s identity

As the city struggles with an identity crisis, those restaurants still serving dishes that defined a generation are finding it pays to remain true when cooking up the old family favourites

Topic |   City Weekend

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Wong Wing-lung, owner of Chan Hong Kee restaurant, evolves his menu to keep up with the city’s tastes. Photo: Paul Yeung
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Jessie Lau

Jessie Lau

Jessie Lau is a journalist with the South China Morning Post covering Hong Kong news and social affairs. Working primarily for the paper’s City Weekend edition, she writes features and news stories on diverse topics including human rights, culture and the environment. Originally from Hong Kong, she joined SCMP in 2015 after graduating with distinction from the University of California, Berkeley with a degree in English. Prior to joining SCMP, Jessie helped edit San Quentin News, an inmate-produced newspaper at San Quentin State Prison, served as news editor for UC Berkeley’s independent student newspaper and reported as a political intern for Capitol Weekly. Follow her on Twitter/Instagram @_laujessie or visit her website at www.laujessie.com.