Why are Hong Kong eateries selling ‘poor man’s meals’ bucking closure trend?
Kuen Fat Kitchen is among ‘this-this rice’ chains not only surviving, but thriving as other places close their doors amid difficult economy
Eateries specialising in what were once known as “poor man’s meals” and which typically operated in Hong Kong’s lower-income neighbourhoods are bucking the local trend of restaurant closures, with many chains expanding across the city.
One expansive player is Kuen Fat Kitchen, which recently came under the spotlight for spending HK$180,000 (US$22,900) a month on renting a 372 square metre space on the touristy Humphreys Avenue in Tsim Sha Tsui for what the company has called the city’s largest two-dish-rice restaurant.
It is set to become Kuen Fat’s fifth branch, joining others in Causeway Bay, Yau Ma Tei, Kwun Tong and Jordan.
“This-this rice has become a habit of Hongkongers, like how they frequent cha chaan teng,” said Kitty Chan, a manager at Kuen Fat, referring to Hong Kong-style cafes. “The dining routine has really changed since the government’s Covid policies.”
Such chains are known for serving no-frills dishes and are popularly called “this-this rice” restaurants because customers point to their stir-fried Cantonese favourites to order and say “this, this”, with a generous serving of rice included, all for around HK$30 or more.