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City Weekend
Hong KongSociety

Coronavirus shakes up Hong Kong restaurant scene, with new players opening cafes, veterans chasing lower rents in residential areas

  • As Hong Kong’s tourist spots go quiet, new eateries sprout in older districts, far-flung areas
  • Entrepreneurs brave uncertainties, open 2,700 new restaurants as pandemic drives rents down

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Gary Tse, who opened Cofflow in Sham Shui Po, is one of many entrepreneurs who have tried to make the pandemic work for them. Photo: Xiaomei Chen
Ji SiqiandKathleen Magramo

The stamped metal gate blends in with the row of shops selling fabrics and auto accessories along a narrow street in Sham Shui Po, one of the poorest districts in Hong Kong.

But the unmistakable aroma of roasted coffee beans wafting from the entrance of Cofflow, a cafe opened by Gary Tse Kin-seng in late January, sets it apart from its neighbours.

After more than a decade working as a chef in restaurants and hotels, the 35-year-old decided to make his long-time dream of owning a coffee shop come true.

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Like many others in the food and beverage sector, Tse found his opportunities for steady work greatly reduced after the Covid-19 pandemic hit the city in January last year. At one point he was juggling four jobs.

The pandemic proved the trigger and, in a way, provided the opportunity.

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“If a cafe had hired me as a full-time barista, I might not have had the chance to open my own coffee shop,” he says. “The pandemic forced me to think about it. I had the money, so why not?”

It helped that rents had come down throughout the health crisis.

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