Supermodels Iman and Naomi Campbell want more 'models of colour' on catwalk

Supermodel Iman watched the runways like a hawk this New York Fashion Week - but she wasn't looking at the clothes.

Iman joined with Naomi Campbell and veteran modelling agent Bethann Hardison for an unusual effort they are calling Balance Diversity to bring more black models to the runway, and they called out designers who instead whitewash their runways in an open letter early last week.

By all indications, the letter made a difference, with a rise in diversity at the previews that ended last week. All the top designers presenting in New York used at least one black model, and some who previously had no black models used as many as seven this season.

"I've always said runways and photos are important to shape our young girls," Iman said in an interview last week. "To see models of colour on the runway is important to the self-esteem of our young girls. To see otherwise makes them feel like they can be 'in or out'."

What remains to be seen is whether the greater black presence on runways is a lasting trend or just more fast fashion? If black models fall out of favour next season like a short hemline, is that racist?

Balance Diversity is part activist group, part blog, part watchdog. They posed a catwalk challenge just before the seasonal style previews were to begin in New York.

"Eyes are on an industry that season after season watches fashion design houses consistently use ... one or no models of colour. No matter the intention, the result is racism," said their open letter to the Council of Fashion Designers of America.