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Neither war nor peace: how the Paris terror attacks one year ago transformed and traumatised France

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This file photo taken on November 17, 2015 shows a miniature Eiffel tower, candles and flowers displayed at a makeshift memorial outside Le Carillon cafe in Paris, in tribute to the victims of the terrorist attacks in which 130 people were killed and another 413 injured. Photo: AFP

Outside the Carillon bar, where flowers piled up over bloodstains almost one year ago, the pavement tables are packed again with regulars from the hipster Parisian neighbourhood.

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Drinks, cigarettes and laughter outside the red-fronted cafe suggest a recovery from the November 13, 2015, attacks, which saw it sprayed with automatic gunfire.

Opposite sits the Petit Cambodge restaurant, another business thriving again after being targeted by the Islamic State (IS) extremists who killed 130 people during their rampage across the French capital.

But beneath the outward signs of normality and defiance, some Carillon patrons betray the anxieties felt keenly across a deeply changed country.
On November 14, 2015, people comfort each other outside Le Carillon restaurant, one of the sites of Paris terrorist attacks the day before. Photo: AFP
On November 14, 2015, people comfort each other outside Le Carillon restaurant, one of the sites of Paris terrorist attacks the day before. Photo: AFP

Helene Lebecque, a 40-year-old who works in a nearby boutique, said on the surface that nothing has changed. “The bar’s full, it’s party time. You’d never know,” she said.

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But she also confided that the bloodshed is never far from her thoughts. “There isn’t a night when I go to the Carillon that I don’t think about it.”

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