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Austrian chocolate controversy over Mozart sweets strikes a sour note

Mozartkugel inventor Paul Fuerst’s mistake of not protecting his creation allowed imitators and knock-offs to enter the market

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An employee at Cafe Konditorei Fuerst displays original handmade Mozartkugel chocolates at Cafe Konditorei Fuerst in Salzburg, Austria, on April 16. Photo: AFP
Agence France-Presse
At a small high-end confectionery in Vienna, chefs put the finishing touches to one of Austria’s signature souvenirs: Mozart chocolate balls filled with marzipan, pistachio, and rich almond and hazelnut nougat.

Family-owned Leschanz still painstakingly makes the Mozartkugel chocolates by hand before putting them in their signature wrapping, featuring a portrait of Austria’s 18th-century composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

But Leschanz is in the minority these days – and with the number of brands rising, the chocolate balls beloved by tourists and locals alike are often no longer even produced in Austria.

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US food giant Mondelez, which owns one of the most recognisable brands, moved its production from the Austrian city of Salzburg – Mozart’s birthplace – to Eastern Europe last month, reigniting a heated and long-running marketing debate.

Wolfgang Leschanz, owner of the Leschanz chocolate factory, displays handmade Mozartkugel chocolates at his plant in Vienna, Austria, on April 23. Photo: AFP
Wolfgang Leschanz, owner of the Leschanz chocolate factory, displays handmade Mozartkugel chocolates at his plant in Vienna, Austria, on April 23. Photo: AFP

“It’s a shame, because Mozart balls are an Austrian product,” said head confectioner and owner Wolfgang Leschanz, 75.

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