The opening of a celebrity chef's restaurant is guaranteed to cause a stir of publicity, particularly outside Los Angeles and New York, where such occurrences are more commonplace. Few, however, can match the pulling power of Nobu, the celebrated empire of sushi restaurants helmed by Japanese chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. The appeal is not that Matsuhisa's restaurants are frequented by every celebrity worth their column inches, from Madonna and Tom Ford to Al Pacino and Johnny Depp. Nor is it down to Hollywood legend Robert De Niro being a partner in the business. What is ennobling the Nobu name is the fact that Matsuhisa and his constantly evolving culinary creations have become almost as famous as the clientele they attract.
The latest venture from Matsuhisa - more popularly known as Nobu - is set to open next month at the InterContinental Hong Kong, in Tsim Sha Tsui. When we meet in the hotel's lounge, Matsuhisa, 57, is fresh from a morning of interviews with prospective staff. Accompanied by his long-time managing partner, Richie Notar, the chef shows no sign of his gruelling schedule, which sees him spend an average of 25 days each month travelling the world to check on and improve his restaurants. Indeed, he seems relaxed, in good spirits and is full of enthusiasm for his new project.
'I think Hong Kong is the best market in Asia,' says Matsuhisa in heavily accented English. 'People talk about Bangkok, Singapore, the Philippines, even Shanghai and Taiwan, but Hong Kong is the most cosmopolitan, fashionable, international city.'
It is also a city of large disposable incomes, the earners of which have an appetite for quality food at top-class restaurants. This is where Matsuhisa comes in. His distinctive take on Japanese cuisine, with signature dishes such as black cod with miso soup, has garnered him a loyal following among A-listers and made weekend reservations at his restaurants a status symbol.
This is the side of the business handled by Notar, a savvy New Yorker and former Studio 54 bus boy who possesses a winning smile and an easy manner perfectly suited to meeting and greeting the chain's rich and famous diners. During our interview, he is quick to step in with clarifications and anecdotes when Matsuhisa's English falters.
'We have a big following among VIPs,' says Notar.
'It means basically juggling a lot of egos.' For Notar, this includes ensuring tables are made available