A Cellar's Market
Fine wine is a precious thing. Like most precious things, it's not cheap and it requires careful handling. What could be more disappointing than opening a bottle of wine you have stored patiently for years only to find it has spoiled?
To avoid such mishaps, wine must be kept in a carefully controlled environment. In hot and humid Hong Kong, don't make the mistake of assuming a domestic air conditioner can do the job. While air conditioning can keep a room cool, it also extracts moisture from the air - which is bad news for wines, as they need a certain amount of humidity to prevent corks drying out.
'Domestic air conditioners blast out cold air at a temperature way below their setting. When the temperature is reached, warm air is blown out. This can happen hundreds of times a day,' says Gregory De'eb, general manager of Crown Wine Cellars, a professional wine-storage company. 'Each time cold air is blasted out, the living molecules that wine is made up of constrict - like human skin getting goose bumps. And when warm air is blown out, the molecules relax.'
While this will have no impact on a very young, robust wine, it is disastrous for an older, more delicate wine because you are effectively making it exercise all day long, warns De'eb, who also points out that wine must be protected from vibrations, direct sunlight and white light. The safest way to do this at home is with a wine fridge.
'Wine fridges are popular in Hong Kong as they fit well into homes, whereas purpose-built wine cellars are too big for many properties here,' says Jo Purcell, managing director of Farr Vintners (Asia). 'There is a vast array of wine fridges available here, with an array of price tags,' she says. They come with glass fronts, wood finishes to match household furniture, digital readouts, hidden handles and in a range of sizes from large, free-standing units to half-sized fridges that fit under a kitchen counter.
Farr Vintners sells a Chinese model called Hometech (HK$5,700) that holds 75 bottles and features a small digital temperature display. The downside of this model is that there are only three settings - high, medium and low, whereas more expensive brands allow you to fix a precise temperature.
For the style-conscious wine connoisseur, the new collection from Miele is a neat solution. The marque's two glass-fronted models feature a 'presenter', which allows you to display individual bottles, and a concealed handle strip that does not spoil the simplicity of the design.
Inside, wine bottles are stored on six or seven height-adjustable racks made of acacia wood. The appliance comes with labels for use in the front shelf trim to help organise the unit's contents.
For a touch of modern glamour, Miele also offers made-to-order double food and drink refrigerators in stainless steel. Behind the imposing doors lie Miele's technical sophistication and a wealth of design options, including a wine storage unit. The design is simple and elegant and each unit is handcrafted to complement kitchen cabinetry.
All four units provide an optimum microclimate for long-term wine storage, with temperature settings of between five and 22 degrees Celsius and humidity maintained at 60 to 70 per cent. The low-vibration design means fine wines are not unsettled and can mature in peace, while an active charcoal filter prevents odours getting inside the unit and destroying their bouquet. In the event of a power cut or the door being left ajar, an alarm will sound. The door can also be locked.
If space is a concern, Samsung's home wine cellar, which retails at HK$4,800, is a compact design that holds just 29 bottles. The temperature can be adjusted at the touch of a button and anti-UV tempered glass protects the contents from light damage. Inside, five chrome-finished wire shelves and a display shelf with an incandescent interior light makes it easy to find the right bottle in a hurry.
EuroCave invented the original wine fridge in 1976 and the firm's products have long been the choice for experts and novices alike. Designs include the deluxe beech-panelled cabinets with options for a built-in bar and humidor. The cabinets have everything you need to safely nurture your grand cru to an even grander old age while taking pride of place in your living or dining room.
Keeping pace with the competition, EuroCave has expanded its already large collection of wine fridges to include a compact range designed for the kitchen. With their amber-coloured interior lighting and a choice of anti-UV glass or elegant stainless-steel doors, they are an attractive, secure way to store your wines.
If you do have a cellar or dedicated wine room, EuroCave also makes a modular storage system that allows you to build a personalised unit that can evolve as you need it to. Options include sliding drawers, crates, display shelves and corner units, all of which are stackable and interchangeable. Made from solid oak, which is naturally resistant to humidity and fungus growth, the system is sturdy and secure, although keeping a consistent temperature and humidity level is difficult in an open space so you will need a sealed, airtight room with special climate-control units.
Those fortunate enough to have the space - and the cash - can be inspired by designers such as Tony Chi, who was responsible for the walk-in wine cellar at Cinecitta in Star Street. The transparent cellar mirrors the sophistication of the chic restaurant's clear glass facade and turns a simple storage solution into a tasteful talking point.
To recreate this at home is not cheap. Even without the designer's fee, the cost of materials and construction would, says Cinecitta's general manager, Austin Liu, set you back about HK$800,000. He also points out that it costs HK$10,000 a month to run the cooling units. If you're not one to blink at a five-figure monthly electricity bill, then this is sure to make you a popular host. Liu suggests arranging your wine by region to enhance the display and give your guests an easier selection. 'Our cellar houses 1,600 bottles of wine, which we arrange by region. It's convenient and educational,' he says.
For a cellar this size you will need two units that run consecutively (12 hours each) for round-the-clock temperature consistency. 'The temperature must remain at 17 to 20 degrees and stay at around 70 per cent humidity for red wines,' explains Liu. 'If you plan to serve wines straight from your cellar, you will need a separate refrigeration section to serve white wines and champagne at a cooler five to seven degrees.'
The glass will take a lot of cleaning, and be prepared for condensation on the outside when the humidity is high.
For the true connoisseur - or for the spatially challenged - the safest option is to leave your wine storage to the professionals. Crown Wine Cellars in Shouson Hill has taken six old bunkers
20 metres below ground with two-metre thick concrete walls and turned them into the ultimate wine-cellaring facility. State-of-the-art computer-controlled equipment creates a perfect replica of the cellar in which a wine is matured for the first critical years after bottling.
The cellar requires just 24 hours' notice to deliver any wine on your personal inventory to your home or restaurant and the staff handle wine import and export, including shipping, customs and duty - so you can just enjoy the wine.
