Why Cambodia’s Angkor marathons are a big winner with runners from around the world
The Southeast Asian nation’s ever more popular running events pass through scenery so beautiful even racers stop to take photographs
Cambodia may not be out in front when it comes to hosting long-distance running events, but its growing appeal for amateur and competitive racers appears to be picking up pace – and the nation’s scenery and ancient temples also provide a stunning backdrop.
The running community in the Southeast Asian nation has grown substantially since the pandemic as more people place greater emphasis on health and well-being, while runners from further afield are also discovering that the landscapes of capital Phnom Penh, and Siem Reap in particular, can offer an altogether extraordinary running experience.
“Angkor Wat’s half marathon is a scenic, almost mystical community event rather than a hardcore competitive race,” says Christof Wittig, a Hong Kong-based manager at tech company Hornet.
He has run the Angkor Wat International half marathon – which takes place in the cooler month of December during Cambodia’s high tourism season, attracting large numbers of international runners – three times, and it is the only race he makes a point of revisiting, besides those in his hometown of San Francisco.
“The morning hours in the park are just magical ahead of the tourist crowds; I will definitely go back,” he says. “As the race progresses, the sun rises through fog and cooking smoke from nearby households, creating a hazy, mystical light that slowly reveals more temple details.”
He says many participants experience it as a scenic run rather than attempting a fast time, often even stopping mid-race to take photographs.
Siem Reap is of course famous on the tourist trail for the Angkor Archaeological Park, a Unesco World Heritage site. Yet Cambodia’s second largest city also hosts several organised runs, including the Angkor Empire Marathon in August – which was this year named among the top 12 international marathons by Forbes Travel Guide.
The event, which is due to take place on August 2, includes four distances all following a circuit passing through the archaeological park and taking in some of its most photographed and iconic religious structures, including the 12th century Bayon temple and the “monumental gates” of the Angkor Wat complex.
Last year’s Empire Marathon saw a record 4,500 runners, including more than 750 international participants. This year’s event is expected to attract up to 6,000 runners, including athletes and participants from Asia, according to event organisers.
Meanwhile, last December’s half marathon drew 16,000 participants with more than 80 countries represented — the most in its 10-year history.
Cambodian Ngy Sovanratany has completed three marathon events in the country at distances of 21 kilometres, despite only taking up running a little over a year ago.
“Every race brings together runners of all levels, and that’s what makes it special,” he says, adding that during one of the events he unintentionally became a pacer for other runners.
“Some younger runners started following my pace and somehow we pushed each other to the finish line,” he says, adding that the supportive and welcoming atmosphere at the events reflects the positive spirit he has found in Cambodia’s running scene.
Ngy, who will run his first full marathon at the upcoming Angkor Empire event, runs with the Kak Runner Club in Phnom Penh, which he says emphasises fun and community spirit over competitiveness. The city’s Olympic Stadium is usually a practice venue during the week, and on weekends he runs different routes through the city.
“There is no strict route but I always end up passing the riverside; it’s less planned training and more of an accidental city tour,” he says.
Elaine Lee, a Hongkonger and former teacher, moved to Phnom Penh in 2019 and now plays an active role in Cambodia’s running community. She began running in Hong Kong as a way to de-stress from the pressures of work, winning the first race she joined in the city.
Within months of her move to Cambodia she qualified as a running coach and established a running club called SuSu, which means “keep going” in Khmer. SuSu rapidly gained popularity and has grown from a handful of members to around 1,800, including Cambodians and expats from places such as Australia, Canada and Taiwan.
The group also attracts runners from overseas, who team up with club members during their visits to Cambodia, and it organises several weekly meets plus free training sessions for all ages and ability levels, including programmes tailored to help athletes prepare for long-distance events such as marathons.
“We started from zero with no support but we just focused on the training,” Lee says, adding that the group then grew via word of mouth and social media. “We focus on fostering community support and friendship through diverse training programmes, and we hope to create international training opportunities for local athletes.”
Johnson Lo, a logistics specialist originally from Taiwan, moved to Cambodia almost eight years ago. He began running with SuSu in its early days and now leads regular coaching sessions. In addition to keeping healthy, he says running also helped him discover a community of like-minded friends that extends beyond running.
“Running changed my life; before, I was very shy to talk with people. Now I coach and share our energy with people,” he says, adding that the Mekong riverside in Phnom Penh is one of his favourite running routes as it offers a scenic and safe passage away from the city’s busy roads.
This stretch of the Mekong River passing through the capital is emerging as a vibrant destination for residents and tourists, lined with Khmer street food stalls, cafes and rooftop bars, adding to the appeal for visiting runners, according to the Cambodia Tourism Board.
Meanwhile Lee, who competes in various running events in Cambodia and won the women’s half marathon in Siem Reap in 2021, says while local communities were initially unused to seeing women run, attitudes have changed and many more women safely run in groups.
She adds that Cambodia’s officially organised marathon and half marathon events are now a “must-do” special experience for runners worldwide.
And Ngy encourages visitors to “come for the run, stay for the experience”, saying: “You’ll leave with more than just a medal; you’ll leave with a great story.”