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A 260km cycling journey around Jeju through volcanic landscapes and fishing villages

The South Korean island is known for its beaches, black pork and haenyeo divers, but a bike trip reveals traces of history that still shape it

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A cyclist follows the blue line that marks the Jeju Fantasy Bicycle Path, which circumnavigates the South Korean island. Photo: Cameron Dueck
Cameron Dueck

The colours dazzle under the midday sun, even through squinting eyes.

Aqua blue sea, sparkling and dancing with the waves, a bright baby blue where the sea floor turns to sand, a deeper marine hue where the water deepens. The sea tears itself into dashes of foam along the shore, surprising me as the white rears up and falls with a whoosh right next to my wheels.

Then the volcanic basalt, jagged and hot as it absorbs the sun’s rays, stretches clean and black as far as the eye can see. Finally, the lush green vegetation, buzzing with insect song and dappled with pink flowers, appears impenetrable in its unchecked growth.

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Cutting through those colours – beside the green, sometimes into the black and so close to the aquamarines that the white sprays against our hot skin – is a pale blue line painted on the road that rings Jeju, leading cyclists around Korea’s tourist paradise.
Squid drying on handrails around the port in a Jeju fishing village. Photo: Cameron Dueck
Squid drying on handrails around the port in a Jeju fishing village. Photo: Cameron Dueck
My partner and I are riding rented mountain bikes around the island, which sits just off the south coast of South Korea. We have chosen to take our time on a 234km ride that should, it is suggested, take three to four days. By exploring side roads and lingering over roadside coffee breaks, our loop will stretch to more than 260km, spread out over six days.
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