MAGIC IN the desert

The Hummer rolls over the rugged terrain of California's vast Colorado Desert. My niece and nephew - Kaela, 6, and Brochton, 10 - giggle in the back, swaying with every bump and dip.

William, our tour guide and a student of archaeology, shows us the cactuses and arid plants you can eat in what appears to be the uninhabitable landscape. He points out lizards, snakes, roadrunners, vultures and owls to the children, who squeal with delight at every wild creature.

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