Getting hooked on the lake where legends were born

IT could be the introduction to an Indiana Jones movie. Before the titles, before the theme tune, there are just the muted calls of birds and the low hum of insects as a boat putters its way along a winding river.

At times the water is so low the boatman hops out to push, and the bends of the Sungei Pahang are so frequent and tortuous that after five minutes or so the passengers are disorientated, adrift in one of the oldest jungles in Asia which is even now leaning over to threaten them in its magnificence.

But instead of launching an attack, the natives - aboriginals from the Jakun tribe - wave passively, and nothing larger than a monitor lizard scuttles along the banks, nothing fiercer than a kingfisher darts out of the trees.

In time the forest parts and Tasik Chini reveals itself at the end of this enchanting water taxi ride - a glorious aquatic retreat 50 kilometres from Kuantan on the east coast of Malaysia.

The 150-hectare network of a dozen lakes is at its most spectacular in July and August, when pink lotus flowers carpet the waters in a riot of colour.

But it is what lurks beneath the surface of the waters which draws many of Tasik Chini's visitors and provides day-to-day sustenance for the Jakun, who once roamed all this region but now keep mostly to their villages, welcoming tourists and flaunting their blow-pipes.

The lake teams with fish, and for HK$30 an hour one of the locals will guide anglers and their rods to the most fruitful spots where the best fish lie.

Toman, or giant snakehead, can reach up to 10 kilos, but the Gouramy is said to taste sweeter. Otherwise there are Tilapia, Malay Mahseer and Carp, all obligingly waiting to be duped by a twist of metal camouflaged with some tempting titbit.

The boatmen, who favour excursions at dawn and dusk, all champion a favourite bait, some sticking rigidly to worms, others singing the praises of small frogs, others still stoutly declaring that only chicken hearts or baby fish will tempt the elusive Toman. Whatever the bait, Chini delivers the goods.

While waiting for a bite, there should be ample time to ponder the origins of Tasik Chini. The lake is said to cover an ancient city, marked by the annual appearance of the miraculous stone known as Batu Sri Gumum.

More exotic yet, the lake itself was reportedly formed when a group of Jakun cleared the land after receiving permission from an old lady who left her walking stick behind. When one Jakun drove his axe into a log, blood gushed out, the sky darkened and in the ensuing confusion another Jakun uprooted the walking stick, the ground opened up and water flooded out to form the lake.

The log was then realised to have been Naga Seri Gumum - a mythical dragon possibly twinned with Scotland's Loch Ness monster.

The Rangers' camp is adjacent to the Lake Chini Resort, an extremely rustic set of chalets set in the woods on the lake shore, with a family room going for HK$200 a night. Dormitory beds cost $45, or pitching a tent just $10.

Set meals in the restaurant are $25. Epicures might want to bring some of their own supplies if they doubt their angling ability, and any warm blooded human will want a gallon of mosquito repellent.

Up country and up market, Tasik Kenyir offers a more comfortable stay and equally good fishing. Formed by the Kenyir dam in 1985, the reservoir lies one hour from Kuala Terengganu on the northeast coast.

The tree trunks which in places break the surface of the lake are the remnants of the old jungle which used to cover the whole area and which still fringes the shores.

The newly-built Primula Kenyir Lake Resort hosts a scattering of charming bungalettes ($180-$300 per night) on the island of Pulau Ipoh, five minutes skim by speedboat from the mainland.

The fish at Kenyir echo the roll-call of residents at Tasik Chini, with Toman and Tilapia, Sebaran and the Striped Catfish - known as Baung locally - both purposely bred here and occurring naturally.

From the jetty at the resort it's possible to flick on the lights and settle down for an evening's angling, first netting tiddlers as live bait and then dangling a rod and line over the edge.

The man to watch is Resort Manager Alias Mohd - staff enjoy the sport just as much as the guests and enter into the night's festivities with unfettered enthusiasm.

Mr Mohd shows the way, hooking his prizes with a modicum of effort and a fair degree of showmanship. Offshore, there is just as good a catch in the coves and hidden corners which dot the edges of Tasik Kenyir.

And if all else fails, there is a government fish farm not 20 minutes boat ride from the resort where the frustrated can take their pick of the finest fish available.

Malaysia is dotted with Rumah Persinggahan or Rest Houses, an agreeable legacy from colonial days when suitable accommodation was built in all the larger towns to lodge travelling officials.

The Prime Minister of Malaysia has chosen a secluded island on Tasik Kenyir as the site for his own personal rest house - lent out occasionally to selected dignitaries - and its gabled roof tops peer loftily down between the surrounding trees, the ultimate residence in this supreme hideaway.

Despite Tasik Kenyir being a reservoir, motorboats are still allowed on the water and the opportunities on its seemingly endless surface are similarly unlimited.

High winds are rare, so it is ideal for water and jet skiing, and house boats cruise the more remote stretches on a daily basis or longer if the passengers wish.

Primula resort has plans to add a swimming pool and is landscaping a park on the hill above where families with young children can run wild and enjoy themselves.

Further afield, Tasik Kenyir is fed by a number of streams and waterfalls, the most spectacular being the 100-metre Lasir which hurtles down from the jungle into a shallow pool before emptying itself into the main reservoir.

It is at its most impressive after the rainy season in December/January, but the flow remains strong for the rest of the year and becomes more clear in June/July. Steps climb the hill alongside the falls, and there's a rope to swing on over the bathing pool. It's peaceful and remote and a perfect spot for a day's picnicking and swimming.

Back at the resort's al fresco restaurant, there are few more pleasurable diversions than looking out over the lake towards the dam, watching the morning mist being burnt off by the rising sun as the swallows feed, continuously wheeling and swooping.

Tasik Kenyir, wrought from the earth by man for his own ends, has done much to enhance and glorify nature.

More information about lake fishing holidays in Malaysia can be obtained from the Hongkong office of the Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board, Tel 865 4610. An international angling contest will be held at Kenyir in July.