Heart of darkness

'I'VE NEVER SEEN anything like it, and I pray that I never have to again,' says police sergeant Niwat Siwantawong, taking a fierce pull on his cheroot. 'I mean, this is a pretty wild province - we're close to the Burmese border - and I've seen some things in my time. But nothing like this.'

The wiry policeman, who sports a bejewelled pistol and two sets of handcuffs on his cowboy belt, oversees a small corner of Ratchaburi province's Damnoen Saduak district, three hours' drive west from Bangkok. It's a beautiful part of Thailand, home to the famously photogenic floating market, where women in big straw hats paddle small wooden boats laden with all manner of produce, about cool green canals. Dotted between the palm plantations are fruit and vegetable orchards, criss-crossed by irrigation ditches full of lotus flowers.

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