The Line, Singapore

What is it? The hottest new restaurant in town, The Line at the Shangri-La aims to revolutionise a tired old faithful in dining: the buffet. Sixteen culinary stations representing a staggering array of international cuisines vie for attention in this sleek space created by restaurant design It-boy Adam Tihany, of Spago and Le Cirque 2000 fame.

What does it look like? With smooth white and orange lines and lofty ceilings, The Line feels more like a food concept store than a restaurant. Stark white tables and chairs are complemented by 1960s retro fabrics and plasma screens showing surreal art films about the origins of foods. Tihany's exclusive Schowald porcelain dining sets round out each table's contemporary look. Every stall features an open kitchen revealing the preparation of each type of food.

What kind of food is served? It's more a question of what's not available. The Line has many of the global cuisine bases covered, with everything from a crustacean bar to a fresh pasta outlet to a paratha counter. A recent visit yielded three kinds of heirloom tomatoes (a rarity in Asia), a roast duck and fig salad garnished with edible flowers, cocoa pasta with Bolognese sauce, spit-roasted turbot with roasted peach glaze and what must have been the freshest palak paneer on the planet.

What's so special about it? The Line's crowning glory has to be its dessert section, where a metre-high chocolate fountain provides a tasty and fragrant focal point. There are at least 50 other delectable desserts to try, including The Line's own cake, an orange-infused chocolate concoction, and a cold stone ice cream teppanyaki counter.

Sounds overwhelming. It is, but if you feel lost one of the knowledgeable staff (clad in snappy, geometric print outfits designed by Ross Chng) will give you a guided tour. And, because of the emphasis on open kitchens, the chefs prepare your food in front of you and are more than happy to gush about their creations. In fact, the restaurant purposely doesn't label the food, thus ensuring interaction between the customers and the cooks. One chef told me the stalls see themselves in friendly competition with one another, so you can be guaranteed good service.

The Line is at the Shangri-La Hotel, Orange Grove Road, Singapore 258350, tel: 65 6213 4275. Open for breakfast (S$37, or $175), lunch (S$41), dinner (S$65) and late-night dining. Nicole Hess