The jeweller of kings

Paris-based Cartier has a rich history of creativity, luxury and glamour. Its pedigree comes shining through in every one of its exquisite timepieces, which are a delicate blend of technical skill and design

There are not many magic words in this world that will make a Hong Kong girl's eyes light up, but 'Cartier' is definitely one of them.

The French brand has supplied gems and fine timepieces to the rich, royal and famous in Europe and beyond for more than 150 years, and its name has become synonymous with luxury, glamour and indulgence.

At this year's SIHH fair in Geneva, Cartier unveiled designs for its exclusive Collection Privee line, and strengthened the core lines in its main collections: Santos, Pasha, Tank and Roadster.

These exquisite jewellery creations upped the ante in the glamour stakes.

Helene Poulit-Duquesne, the brand's director of watchmaking marketing development, said that these were the beginnings of good times for the luxury industry.

'All markets have been going through a huge crisis, but now it's over,' she said. 'There has been a very good response this year.'

Ms Poulit-Duquesne has been with Cartier for seven years and marketing director since the end of 2002. She said joining the brand was an easy decision.

'In the luxury goods industry, there are two main groups. The second of those is Richemont, and the best brand in the group is Cartier,' she said.

'That is the business point of view. Personally, I think Cartier is the king of jewellers, and the jeweller of kings.'

Having been in the industry throughout her career, it is fair to say Ms Poulit-Duquesne has a passion for watches.

'I always wear two,' she said. 'I'm not sure why, but I just started doing it about five years ago. They both show the same time unless I'm travelling, and then I set one to my local time and keep the other on Paris time.'

She said at the top end of the luxury watch market were two brands: Rolex and Cartier.

'But in terms of products, we are opposites,' she said. While Rolex was typically Swiss in its approach to watchmaking - focusing on quality and reliability - Cartier's philosophy was quite different.

'We come mainly from Paris in spirit,' she said. 'We have a history of more creativity, of experimenting with many different shapes, so it is a wider experience at Cartier.'

The brand's heritage as a jeweller meant that it tended to look at timepieces in a slightly different light than other watch companies.

'Many watch brands are very specialised - their core business is watchmaking,' Ms Poulit-Duquesne said. 'But Cartier is not.'

Cartier's approach was characterised by the concept of l'horlogerie des formes - watchmaking by form - and so was defined as a balance between technical skill and design.

'On watchmaking at Cartier, quality of technical parts is evident,' she said.

'Of course, we have to have the best quality, but on top of that we search for creativity and glamour.

'We have a huge amount of power in terms of creativity.'

But creativity did not run unchecked in Cartier's design rooms, she said. The brand had an image, and any Cartier timepiece needed to fit in with that.

'Continuity is very important,' Ms Poulit-Duquesne said.

'All our new products have to retell the true stories of Cartier, this magnificent saga that clients have to know. We are not going to go in search of newness at any price.'

Established in 1847, Cartier has a rich heritage. Its archives in Paris contain a complete record of all the brand's creations and are a rich source of inspiration for designers.

'We have all this history that we can take and create something new,' she said.

'It gives us a wide base to recreate anything.'